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Wascally Wabbit 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: WAGbag on Oct 1, 2015

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Wandering up the center of the wall this route might get the award for sharpest route at the Fins. Start with a surprisingly hard move off the flake to 3 bolts of easy and sharp climbing angling right. The business starts as you make your way into the sloper and a very sharp pocket pinch. One long move gains the last obvious hold until you reach the anchors. Overall great climbing but docked a star due to the amount of cleaning I had to do up top, the sharpness down low and an anchor setup that isn't ideal.


Center of the wall.


bolts to an offset anchor and single biner.

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By tsmartt
Oct 12, 2015

what's wrong with the anchor?
By WAGbag
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2015

The anchor is an offset chain with a single biner through the bottom link and through a bolt. A single biner isn't generally advised, and putting it directly at the bolt usually creates a twist in the rope when lowering. Rapping of course solves this, but isn't the norm for the rest of the routes here.

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