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Wartley's Revenge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78'
Page Views: 7,214
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.

Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.


Left of Heresy right of the Beard.


nuts and cams to 3"

Photos of Wartley's Revenge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower dihedral
Lower dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing the crux, easier than gorge routes at the ...
Passing the crux, easier than gorge routes at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A friend gracefully working his way up the first p...
A friend gracefully working his way up the first p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Who was Wartley?  ...and why was he so pissed?  Fi...
Who was Wartley? ...and why was he so pissed? Fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: John high on the killer crack testpiece of Wartley...
John high on the killer crack testpiece of Wartley...

Comments on Wartley's Revenge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
May 22, 2006

Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor???
By Eric Brown
From: Corvallis, oregon
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Upper pitches are pretty loose.
By Chris Wright
Oct 4, 2009

The upper pitches are certainly not as classic as the first, but the whole climb makes for a pretty enjoyable outing anyway. It is a bit loose, but it's Smith, right? It's all fun climbing and you get to visit the Hobbit Hole, a neat spot, and then do some fun ridge-running back to the Cinnamon Slab anchors. Worth doing.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Jan 14, 2011

This climb is really fun! It was my first .11 trad lead... ONSIGHT!! Compared to other .11's that ive TR'd it seemed a little soft? Great climb though with super fun moves!
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 14, 2011

Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;)
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2011

I was surprised by the lack of feet on the traverse, as well as how awkward the final leaning crack was. Finishing crux is probably somewhat height dependent. Plenty of options for shorter folks, but I think being taller makes this move easier.
By MeghanK
Mar 23, 2015

I am not one for crack climbing, but this one was really fun.
By Sam Bedell
From: Bend, OR
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You can link the first and second pitches easily, and safely TR them with a 70m if the belayer stands on the higher area left of the start. The second pitch goes at 10a and protects well despite being more crumbly than the first pitch. It is a fun mix of finger jams with positive face holds. Anchor is a good set of bolts with rap chains.

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