|Type:||Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 750', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||jgallagher on Nov 21, 2011|
|Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>|
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By Joseph DeGaetano
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 12, 2013
Definitely one of the best routes on the east coast!!! Well protected and super steep make this rig a truly unique experience.
A few thoughts on the route:
The mantle on pitch 1 is probably no harder than 11+. Have no fear. Have some mid size pieces to protect the run outs above the mantle.
The 2nd pitch "11d" is awesome and no move is harder than 11a/b, just a lot of 10+/11- climbing.
Bring only quickdraws on the 5.8 pitch. If you are scared of falling on this back off now.
The second 5.11c pitch is harder than the enduro one and has some suspect rock.
The first of the 5.12 headwall pitches is pretty easy starting off (even though I've heard people call the move to the third bolt 12b/c, its no harder than 11+) but be ready for a super thin techy boulder problem that is mid 5.12. I managed to free the move but my partner pulled a very small micro flake off when seconding it. Not sure how hard now.
The third and crux 5.12 pitch is mostly easy climbing with a stout blankity blank section of rock that can easily be aided. My guess is that either something broke up there, or the line is not direct above the bolt, and instead moves a good ways to the right and then back left. Not sure, but I fell trying and one look at my freezing belayer and I decided to pull on the draw.
EXCELLENT ROUTE, NOT SCARY AT ALL, NOT THAT COMMITTING, GO DO IT!!!!!
Dec 18, 2015
I agree with Joe on most of his write up with a few exceptions and have some additional thoughts and questions.
-The p1 crux is super cool. Violent swing to cool mantle.
-Bring a few pieces and a ton of shoulder length slings for the long 5.8 pitch. It's bolted all wonky and with QDs only drag would be heinous!
-P5 11+/c thing is awesome and probably my favorite of the whole route. Awesome exposure and cool juggy climbing. Again bolted funky and requires long slings on intial gear and bolts.
- Like Joe mentioned the 1st headwall 5.12 seems to have broken. Since then I've been on it twice and broke tiny crimps both times. I'd like to hear of the last known ascent of this pitch. It now seems like a large dyno will be required to span the first blank section.
-The second headwall pitch is awesome and does seem to meander a good bit right of the crux bolt but the moves go. Again slings on bolts.
-Depending on conditions the exit moves off the headwall are probably totally soaked and the most gripped you'll be on the entire route.
-This is the best protected route I've done at WS with the highest avg quality rock. I hope it can go free again and deserves way more traffic than it seems to get!!!!
By Kyle Drain
Aug 22, 2016
|When is the last time someone went up this? I'm interested in trying it but am curious about the broken headwall pitch.|
From: Young Harris, GA
Nov 14, 2016
Let me just reiterate much of what has already been said in case there was any doubt - this is a phenomenal route both in terms of climbing and rock quality. Lots and lots of bolts - if I were to climb again, I would only take quickdraws/alpines and 2/3 cams (#1 c4, blue tcu, and an optional .4 c4).
Every pitch goes just fine, the blank sections are between good holds, so just clip the bolt and you basically have a toprope for any hard move, including the bigger moves on these "blank" sections. The final crux pitch (P7 blankity blank blank) does indeed go, you just have to do a little searching because the sharp little crimps in that white rock are invisible until you touch them. This truly is a masterpiece!