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Warrior gear rec
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Feb 11, 2013
Anyone have a good gear recommendation list for the Warrior on Cactus Flower? Anyone have opinions on how cold/miserable it might be this weekend with highs of 70 in the valley? Any other info you might want to offer is appreciated as the route info isn't super detailed on MP. Spencer Weiler
From Salt Lake city
Joined Jun 9, 2008
2,001 points
Feb 12, 2013
I advise double 60m ropes so you can climb the long dihedral without a haul or packs. Bring mostly slings. I doubled up on slings on several occasions to avoid rope drag with a single lead rope and tag line. Handren’s guide discusses single rack to 8” with up to six C4 #3’s. However, we were more than comfortable with a single rack from C3’s to C4 #6; three extra #3’s; one extra #2; full set of off-set wires for the 5th and 6th pitches. We used the #6 on several occasions. We left the #5 and #6 behind after the third pitch as well as two of our four #3’s after the 4th pitch. Handren’s guide also mentions knee pads, however my knees never got a scratch without any. This route gets 100% shade in October. I advise hauling a puffy.
Detailed Description of the route
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Feb 12, 2013
Bring some warm clothes, RR will be high 50's/low 60's. I don't think it ever gets any sun.

I thought the approach was pretty involved, way more so than anything on Mt. Wilson. A lot of 5th class moves and you pretty much have to solo the first 5.7 pitch, which is really easy. It looks like Dow smoked the approach, it took us a lot longer than 1 1/2 hours. Have fun!
Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
120 points
Feb 12, 2013
Avoid backpacks other than maybe a camel back to dangle from beneath the second. The guidebook is spot on about gear reqs. Approach is adventurous. Kneepads are nice to have but not mandatory, also probably depends on your body dimensions. Bring a belay coat and climb in a jacket, the route receives zero sun at this time of the year as it faces NE/NNE.

Allow for 2 hours on approach. You will want to be off the route and out of the approach gully by dark, and make sure you get a late exit permit. Enjoy, it really is a remarkable route.
Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
718 points

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