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Lower Gibraltar
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L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Sweep T 
Conundrum T,TR 
Left of Rapture S 
Lieback Annie T,TR 
Rapture, The S,TR 
Warrior Crack T 

Warrior Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brown, Baird & Grosvenor '87
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Michael Stearns at the crux of Warrior Crack

Description 

A short but fun route on the narrow east-facing buttress directly across the creek from T-Crack.

Climb up into an alcove, clip the lone bolt of unknown age and variety, then pull through a short overhang onto a large mantle-shelf. Above this, a unique combination of crack-jamming and arete-slapping will see you through to the top near some large bushes where you build a gear anchor.

Location 

East-most end of the Lower Gibraltar formation. The route can be seen directly across the drainage from T-Crack. Approach downhill as for Lieback Annie/Rapture, but fork left when the trail starts to veer right near the cliff-band. A short brush-tunnel and some loose, 4th class gully downclimbing will get you to the base of the route. This is SB adventure climbing, right?

Protection 

One aging bolt, a few choice pieces from tiny to 1". Build your own anchor.


Photos of Warrior Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne on the upper part of Warrior Crack
Adrienne on the upper part of Warrior Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: R. Shore starting up the Warrior Crack .10c
R. Shore starting up the Warrior Crack .10c

Comments on Warrior Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Stearns
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Also, once topped out be careful walking off b/c it is very exposed. 4th class X through a yucca. Fun stuff.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 29, 2011

Thank you, THANK YOU for exploring this route and then posting. I have long wondered exactly where this route went. The photos are especially helpful. I'll be sure to climb it ASAP.

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