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Warren's Left-Leaning Crack 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on May 10, 2011

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the fingers-to-hands crack through a roof to an intermediate anchor (stopping here keeps things at 5.10+). Continue another 30 ft up the slanting off-fingers crack with a small changing corner to the anchor.

Location 

Fringe of Death Canyon, far to the right of Cactus Flower, at a vertical crack that intersects a large horizontal one about 30 ft up.

Protection 

Fingers to hands, heavy on .75 camalot.


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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route! The climbing to the first anchor is pretty stiff for 10+, the 12- section is sweeeet!

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