|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 380'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Noel Childs, Kirk Miller, Roger "Strappo" Hughes|
|Submitted By:||Ken Heiser on May 26, 2004|
|Comments on Warpath||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 29, 2011
If you aren't up to the .11a low crux, you can start on the adjacent route (5.9) and meet up at the P1 anchors. All bolts are shiny 3/8" stainless. You can get down from the top of P2 with a single 60m, we didn't try P3 due to weather.
I found this climb to be aesthetic, on excellent rock, and VERY hard for the grade.
You'll probably just want ~10 QDs and a 2" cam for a horizontal on P2.
By Don Ferris
From: Eldorado Springs
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
I think the description might be a bit misleading.
The first pitch is 11a off the ground and only 10a with a spot of 10c near the top. Not a very hard pitch if your calves can take it.
Pitch 2 is what I would call the psychological crux with sustained 10b/c climbing in between well-spaced bolts. To me, this was the most difficult and taxing pitch.
Pitch 3 was similar in difficulty to pitch 1 without the off the ground crux. Pretty cruiser with much closer spaced bolts.
Overall, I would not say VERY hard for the grade. To me, 11a seemed right on the money. Don't be scared.
Jul 6, 2016
I did this route yesterday. I have a few clarifications to make.
To the poster who said he could get down from the second pitch with a single 60m: I'm guessing he has a 70 and didn't realize it. The middle mark of my nearly new (uncut) bicolor 60 was probably 25' off the belay by the time my partner got to the second belay. Unless he's talking about leaving gear on one of the bolts or downclimbing, no you can't get off with a 60m.
You can get off the first pitch with a 60m.
If you top out, you need 2 ropes. We didn't bring 2, and one person ended up doing a single fixed rope rappel to the ground, who then ran to the packs and grabbed the tag line and tied it on. I then hauled it up and did a standard double rope rap to the ground. It's about 195' from the anchor. It's about 175' if you swing over to the obvious chains that are atop the 11d slab route. I'd suggest this as it makes the rope pull smooth.
P1 is hard at the 1st bolt and serves as a mental warm up for crystal pinching. This pitch has nice new bolts.
P2 is the real crux from a sustained and bold point of view. It's hands down the most aesthetic on the route and is simply a gorgeous pitch. It also offers the only chance to place pro anywhere on the route, one or two pieces at the top of the horizontal. We used a red Alien and #1 BD doubled up. A #2 or #3 would also fit there. Don't bring a rack, bring a cam. This pitch has 5/16" buttonheads.
P3 has close bolts that are very out of character (thankfully). It's run out on top, but it's very easy climbing, and by that point, you won't care. This pitch has brand new bolts.
The anchor is a rusty mess. The webbing looked OK. I did a 20' rap to set of newer nice chains that made for a much cleaner pull.
Overall, 4 stars for a slab.