Warpath Dome Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo featuring additional details about the ...
Warpath Dome is described in Bob Kerry's 1997 guide Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. It doesn't get much traffic despite having the classic route Warpath.
The main face of this granite dome faces west, and gets shade until the afternoon. The rock quality is good. The Crackathon Area is on the right/southwest flank of Warpath Dome.
The crag itself doesn't have access issues, but the approach could; see below.
To drive to this area, take Middlemarch Road from Tombstone for about 10 miles (or, from the east, come over Middlemarch Pass), then turn left on the Forest Service Road (687?) and follow it north along the west side of the Dragoons for about 30 minutes. Shortly before the road swings right and goes east into West Stronghold Canyon, look for a short dirt track that branches off to the right at a little rise. Park here. You can confirm that you are in the right spot by finding two barbed-wire fences that meet to form a corner about 100-200 feet to the north-west.
This is a new approach, NOT the original approach described in Kerry '97, which goes through what is now occupied private property. (See the attached satellite photo.) You do NOT want to park at the old stage stop ruins; if you find yourself there, drive a few hundred yards back south on the forest road to the new parking spot.
The approach initially goes west, paralleling one of the barbed-wire fences. See the attached satellite photo. As of Summer 2006, one path through the network of cow paths had been somewhat enhanced, but don't work too hard at picking the optimal path.
After about 5 minutes, the barbed-wire fence corners to the left/north, and you should too. Briefly walk north along the ridge before angling down to the right into a wash. After following this wash 100-200 feet, the foot of a ridge will appear on your right. It has several eroded trails up it, and maybe some cairns marking them. Get yourself on top of that ridge.
From that point on, the trail is distinct and well-marked. After another minute or two farther along the approach, it will finally start climbing. Time for the complete approach is about 40 minutes.
Climbing Season For the West Stronghold area.
Weather station 7.1 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Warpath Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Warpath Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Warpath Dome:
Warpath 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Warpath Dome
Warpath 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Warpath Dome
This climb offers some creative crack climbing, some aesthetic dike hiking, some moderate slab climbing, and a bit of steep face. The protection on some of the slab and face could be a little exciting.Note that the pitches I describe here don't jibe with those of Kerry '97. I think he must have conflated two distinct ways of breaking the route into pitches.P1. Straight up the crack, which varies in width. Then jog right at the top via some face moves, and belay just below a second, flared cra...[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona
BETA PHOTO: Warpath Dome from the wash/drainage
BETA PHOTO: Warpath Dome from the new parking spot. Photo lab...
BETA PHOTO: Parking and approach for Warpath Dome.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Jul 1, 2007
"Please, when climbing in the stronghold - unless you know for sure- do not carry a drill. There are at least 1,000 routes done in the area...."
Maybe someday there will be a comprehensive guidebook, so we can know for sure.
By jediah porter
Nov 30, 2012
We descended Warpath, as per Kerry's recommendation, via the walk-off. It's gotta be better to rap. But we weren't sure of our options there. Still can't comment on what rappelling would require. In any case we scouted it out, got all poked up, and can steer you clear. It is worth, however, scrambling above the rap anchors to check out a classic Cochise summit. Plates, holes, boulders, lichen... it's sweet up there.
By Neil and Cassidy
From: Casper, wy
Sep 16, 2014
Any beta regarding the bolts on the face near Warpath? Rapped the route in February and came across several anchors and lines. Seemed like there were a lot of them...
Let me know if I'm blowing the cover on somebody's secret spot, I'll remove the post (in exchange for some beta ;) ) I just returned to AZ and was looking to head back to Cochise this fall armed with new route info.
Dec 15, 2016
I had some difficulty finding the approach trail so I took some GPS coordinates on my way back to the car. Here are some additional details about the approach and another beta photo. After walking north along the ridge and angling down to the right into a wash, I got confused because the wash has three main forks. It's important to head upstream in the right-most (south) fork which follows a south-east heading. This fork was somewhat choked with dead fall. Eventually this (south) fork of the wash peters out where you will find a trail of cairns leading up and to the left onto the ridge between the south fork and middle fork of the main wash. From there the trail is easy to follow.