REI Community
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Heat Wave T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pluto T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Rope to Ruin T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Sundial T 
Sword Of Damocles T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Warp Drive Overload 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Season: trees block afternoon sun
Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Arms driven to overload.

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Warp Drive Overload is the overhung, narrow, face just left of Practice Climb 101. Hidden behind trees, this is one of the better double arete problems in the Western US.

    Start on PC 101. Place some gear up high to protect stepping left to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down.

    Step left onto prow and move up to first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt.  P...
    Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt.

    Photo by Mt Project contributor
    Tom Delaney.

    Use hands and toes on both aretes.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wayne Crill.  Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom ...
    Wayne Crill.

    Photo by Mt Project contributor
    Tom Delaney.

    Clip a second bolt from the not-so-incut hold that Wayne is reaching for in the photo below.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.  Subm...
    Photo by Mt Project contributor
    Tom Delaney.

    Submitted by Mt Project contributor Kevin Murphy.

    Finishing off the crux requires commitment!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Mt Project contributor Phil Lauffen.
    Photo by Mt Project contributor
    Phil Lauffen.


    After the small gear placements on Practice Climb 101, just two protection bolts and then the double bolt anchor.

    Photos of Warp Drive Overload Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Landscape view.
    Landscape view.
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Use hands and toes on both aretes...." ...
    "Use hands and toes on both aretes...." ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb....
    Great climb....

    Comments on Warp Drive Overload Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Mar 22, 2011
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Although rather short (yet not out of character for much of Eldo in that regard), this is a really enjoyable, semi-sustained and asthetic line with fun, gymnastic climbing.

    Ken's description seems pretty right on, note that S. Levin, surprisingly, has the description wrong in the new Eldo guide. This route DOES NOT start to the left but does in fact begin on p1 of PC101 and then moves L onto the overhanging, double arete face.

    Well protected and safe, it's surprising this is not a more popular pitch. It is also not as difficult as advertised. In comparison to other Eldorado climbs, it feels no more difficult that .12-.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About