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Warner Valley

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Fallout Zone, The 
Loading Zone, The 

Warner Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 40.393, -121.3078 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,813
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Paul Bernard on Oct 27, 2010
Forecast:
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Ayaka stemming the overhang section.

Description 

The Warner Valley has a lifetime of rock...99% of it volcanic choss. However, there are several small crags boasting excellent, fine-grained basalt. The two main crags are the Loading Zone, which primarily features 5.7-5.10 gear routes, and the newly-developed Fallout Zone, which primarily features bolted routes in the 5.10-5.12 range. The Fallout Zone is directly above/behind the Loading Zone and it's quite easy to visit both in a day.

Both crags face west and sit at 5200' elevation. Spring to fall is the prime time to visit - the road becomes impassable due to snow in the winter. Shade is easy to find, as the area is heavily treed, and it's generally climbable even on the hottest of days.

PG&E owns the land that the Loading Zone is on, and there are signs at the crag stating "No Camping". However, if you take a right at the last road split (see "Getting There" directions) and head up the hill, there are plenty of spots for dispersed camping. The closest developed campground is the Warner Valley Campground, which is a few miles north and technically within Lassen Volcanic National Park.

For information on the Loading Zone and other crags in the Lassen area, see "Rock Climbs of Northeast California" by Paul Bernard et al.

Getting There 

From the town of Chester, take Feather River Drive towards Lassen N.P. and Drakesbad (don’t head toward Juniper Lake). The first one-lane bridge you come to is called “High Bridge and is about 5.5 miles from the town of Chester. Approximately 0.6 miles past this bridge, the road forks; take the right fork towards Drakesbad and Warner Valley. About 3 miles after the fork you will come to a second one-lane bridge. 1/4 mile after this second bridge, take a right on a dirt road, which forks shortly after the turnoff. Take the left fork onto a smaller dirt road (4WD recommended) and follow for another 1/4 mile to the base of the Loading Zone.

Climbing Season

For the Northeast California area.

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',7],['5.10',13],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Warner Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Warner Valley:
Io's Hidden Pleasure Point   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   The Loading Zone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Warner Valley

Featured Route For Warner Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Ayaka at the overhang on Scatmando.

Scatmando 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Northeast California : ... : The Loading Zone
Has to be one of the best at the crag. Easier than it looks, maybe. The more you climb the crack (leaving the face holds out) the harder it becomes. Good practice for pulling difficult roofs. Climb up the well protected corner to a fun hand traverse left. Pull onto the ledge...or head straight up the crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Warner Valley Add Comment
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By Daniel Wade
From: Oakland, CA.
Jun 3, 2014
We climbed here on May 30, 2014. Great area and many moderate cracks as the description suggests. I lead what I think was a 5.7 crack (thin to wide) on the left side of the feature (perhaps Finger Crack). We TR'd from an anchor I built a slightly harder lie-back on the right (perhaps Black Crack 5.8) and a deceptively easy overhanging off width to the left (perhaps Sure Thing 5.7). There is a set of bolts on the top of the middle of the wall which allows for a TR of an overhanging jam crack/lieback - probably the most striking line when looking at the wall from below. It felt like 5.10 (perhaps Lady Fantasy?). We also TR'd an easy (5.7 - perhaps Second Street Scene) crack to the right. Plenty for lines for a trip back. See also rockclimbing.com/routes/North_....

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