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Warmup Wannabe 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter & Scott Nykerk
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 9, 2010

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This was supposed to be the warmup, but it just wasn't meant to be.

Steep climbing on big, incut holds and rails lead to the real difficulties at the 3rd bolt where you can cop a kneebar rest before continuing. Moderately difficult moves takes you to the fourth bolt which is placed far left so that it could be in the best rock. Stay right of the fourth bolt with the use of ample, but smaller holds. Clip the fifth bolt and bust out the crux by locking off on good, positive edges. The anchor is much easier to clip if you latch the huge sidepull jug out left.


Just right of The Fuse.


5 bolts plus the anchor.

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