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Devine Microphone (aka the Warm-up) S 
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Devine Microphone (aka the Warm-up) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Officially Brian Carkeet and Donnie Anderson mid-2000s, but quite possibly climbed earlier
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: J. Albers on Aug 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Begin by climbing up a shallow groove between two columns using face holds and finger locks. Clip the fourth bolt and merge onto the next route to the right. Continue upwards on fun climbing with relatively large holds with short harder sections in between good rests. Quite a fun route.

This route is really a combination of two different 5.12 routes, but since it is the most common warm-up for the area, I have entered it.

Location 

Begin on the the sixth route from the left (Mr. Microphone) of the lower tier routes. Keep in mind that although this route starts on the sixth route from the left, it actually starts on the fifth bolt line from the left owing to the fact that two of the routes to the left begin with a shared start. At the fourth bolt, merge onto the next route to the right (Divine).

Protection 

Fixed draws and anchors.


Comments on Devine Microphone (aka the Warm-up) Add Comment
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By Dustin Stephens
Oct 12, 2015

This is a good 'un
By Kris S
From: Ocean Beach, SF
Sep 18, 2017

Route name: Divine Microphone (source: SPH guidebook)
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 18, 2017

^^^ Brad just made that name up for the book by combining the route names of the two adjacent climbs because he doesn't like putting "unknown" route "names" in his books. Most folks literally just call it the "warm-up". But to each his own.
By Brad Young
Sep 18, 2017

John,

That's actually not true. Well it is true that I don't like "unknown" as a "route name." That's a given :)

But this route's name was told to me directly by Don Anderson, one of the first ascent authors. As you know, Don climbs at Column of the Giants a lot. He reviewed my Columns text pretty carefully. The name is his, not mine.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 19, 2017

Hi Brad!
Good to see you chime in and set me straight :)

My thinking is that Divine and Mr. Microphone went up when, the mid-90's? And given the lack of a proper warm-up route, it seems a little far fetched to believe that Donnie (or Brian) were the first to climb this pitch. Moreover its a linkup, so calling it an FA is a tad generous, especially since the linkup is easier than either of the individual lines. Still, given the crazy lengths you go to in order to get the details of your books right, I would certainly defer to you, so I will change the name above (but I'm still keeping "the warm-up" as a reference 'cause that's what the old curmudgeons who first brought me up there called it and lord knows they have been climbing there since Tommy H. first starting putting routes in!!)

Cheers,
John
By Brad Young
Sep 19, 2017

John,

As you may recall, I've always been "generous" with FA credits (Vicki's getting first ascent credit with me for the new three star 5.10c face I just did at Burst; she belayed and cheered me on).

People love that kind of credit, and as "ascents" have given way to "route creation," strict definitions of who did what don't work as well.

Glad to see you commenting about SPH. Wish you were here more often ;)

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