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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 
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Ruins Crack T 
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Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Warm-up 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,641
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Nov 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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Just above crux...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.

I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).

Protection 

Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.


Photos of Warm-up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up wide hands.  Anchor visible up and ri...
Finishing up wide hands. Anchor visible up and ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: introduction to IC fall '04
introduction to IC fall '04

Comments on Warm-up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2002

Yeah, definitely harder than 5.8+...
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003

I lead pretty hard, onsight 5.11 and I BACKED OFF this route.....Not 5.8+!
By Ryan Deppen
Aug 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 12, 2007

I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "5.fun".
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

cool little warm up. short. would say it's a 9.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great route for your first IC lead. One move at 5.9 really, and the rest is sinker hands. Great pro.
By TinMan92592
From: Temecula, CA
Apr 2, 2010

As a climber new to crack climbing this was a good route to develop technique of combination of crack and face climbing
By Martin Harris
Oct 23, 2010

fun short and varied with a tricky move or two off the flake
By Keith W
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route packs a bit of everything in a short amount of time. .4 - 3 if you want to zipper it shut. The feet make it 5.9 another short one worth your time.

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