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Warm-Up Handcrack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 11,230
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 19, 2005

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Joel on the Warm Up Crack

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is on the far right end of Reservoir Wall. It is way down past Left, Right, and Middle Cracks until you are around the corner and facing Scarface Wall.

    Continue walking the cliff line past a large dirty depression/scoop of loose tiny rock chips (much like a talus cone) and back up onto boulders again. Perhaps 100 meters or so later, you will reach a fabulous looking, left-facing corner with an outward facing crack in it. It is just as good as it looks.

    David Bloom writes in his book that this climb would be as popular as Incredible Hand Crack if it was not such a long approach, and having done it, I agree. It is just as good and not crowded, nor "used up."

    Lower or rap with a 60M rope, but BE CAREFUL! The climb appears to be just about 100'


    A run of cams from 2"-3" Heavy on the 2.5"

    Photos of Warm-Up Handcrack Slideshow Add Photo
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    Comments on Warm-Up Handcrack Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 26, 2017
    By Joe Collins
    Apr 25, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    In my opinion, this definitely deserves to be on the Best of the Creek list. As it was for me, this is a great route for those who are trying to break into leading sustained Indian Creek 5.10s, but don't necessraily want to do it in front of the masses at Supercrack/Donnely. I believe there is also a decent short 9+/10- route about 60 feet to the right.

    However, from what I've heard, folks at the ranch have asked that climbers not climb on the reservoir side of Reservoir Wall (and also Tricks Wall). I think its more of an aesthetic thing for them, where that part of Reservoir is in plain view of the ranch. Someone who knows the situation better than I could probably give better info. In any case, so as to maintain a good relationship between climbers and local landowners, it is probably best to abide by their wishes.
    By Jesse Ryan
    Sep 19, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Superb. I'd echo on the quality, merit, and certainly recommend the line to anyone even beginning to work into the ten grade at the creek. I'd suggest at least one each at 1 and 1.5 sized friend for the first part of the pitch.
    By Danny Inman
    From: Arvada
    Nov 29, 2005
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Damn good route. My 70 had a plenty left in it once I lowered, I think a 60 would work.
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 13, 2006

    A 60m rope works but make sure to knot the ends just to be safe. May want to bring some new webbing to leave at the anchor. I climbed this back in november of 05 and it was looking pretty weathered and sunbaked.
    By Mitch Musci
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Nov 21, 2006

    Surprised nobody mentioned it of Fall 2005 there was a heinous death block about 25 feet up the climb (approx. 6 feet x 4 feet) that easily wobbled. I found it impossible to avoid without placing a gold Camalot above it and yarding on the cam. There was lots of chalk behind this block - please think twice before manteling on this beast.
    By Tavis Ricksecker
    Feb 13, 2007
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    At Thanksgiving 2006, I don't remember the block. That doesn't mean it wasn't there though, I don't remember a lot of things. 10+ is very generous for this route. It was tight hands for me in certain spots, but I've got big paws so the average hand should have no problem on this one.
    By Wavey
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Mar 26, 2007
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    70 meter rope gets you down from this excellent dihedral.
    By camhead
    From: Vandalia, Appalachia
    Nov 8, 2007

    re: death block; if I am thinking of what you are thinking (the top of the pillar at the base of the crack proper), it is not that loose or sketchy by desert standards. I wouldn't place gear behind it, but if you know how to climb softly on your toes, and not pull straight out (a valuable skill in the desert) you should be fine.
    By Ryan Kelly
    From: work.
    Sep 29, 2008

    The “deathblock” is the top section of a huge wedge-shaped column at the start. There’s a crack suggesting it’s separated from the main column, maybe 8 feet (?) from the apex. The width at that point is over an arm-span, and probably as deep. I’d guess the thing probably weighs over two tons and is quite stable on the rest of the column. I’d worry about the giant detached pillars up top suddenly falling long before I’d worry about this thing. I'd place gear behind it, I'd yard on it - you're not moving that thing with a 20 foot crowbar.
    By Mitch Musci
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Oct 4, 2008

    In regards to my comment on the death block...I remember pulling on the top of it when I first encountered it and the whole thing moved about an inch outward. My partner and I even considered trundling it at the time but left it alone figuring 1. its part of the desert climbing experience and 2. it would have made a TON of noise. Perhaps since then it has settled into a more stable position? Hard to say, and I'm glad other people feel it's safer than I made it out to be because this is a killer route.
    By caughtinside
    From: Oakland CA
    Nov 6, 2008
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Much better than Incredible Hand Crack
    By Timmamok Murphy
    From: Durango, CO
    Mar 11, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Anyone who thinks this is 10+ ought to go and climb The Wave at Supercrack for a good 10+ reference. Both are 4 star climbs.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 31, 2010

    Every bit as good as the hype! a 60m rope barely gets back to teh ground with a little trickery... a 70 would be better
    By EldoFiend
    From: WY
    Apr 1, 2010

    Be really, really, careful if you climb this thing with a 60m rope. We had to help some guy down the scree field who got dropped about ten feet because they forgot to tie a knot in the end. That is not how you want to end your trip.
    By Princess Mia
    From: Vail
    Feb 29, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Super awesome!!! Well worth the long hike.......
    By Jake Dickerson
    From: Lander, WY
    Apr 9, 2015
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Amazing perfect hands. be conscious placing gear right below the roof as it can walk in easily.
    By Nick Black
    From: Arcata, CA
    Apr 18, 2016
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    way better than IHC, the hike is not all that long. My favorite route so far at the creek! Didn't notice any death block, but maybe I've been climbing too may mud towers...:)
    By Frodeman
    Jun 30, 2016

    Stellar. Perfect hands forever. If you want hand crack, climb this. Placed (Camalots) 7x 2's and 3x 3's, as well as a 0.75 and a 0.5. Maybe even a 1 for the pillar at the start. The pump is pretty real at the top, too.
    By Garrett R.
    From: Colorado
    Oct 19, 2016

    Not really note-worthy, don't bother to walk all the way over there, nothing to see here folks.
    By Nate Mankovich
    Apr 26, 2017

    I'm not sure this Warm-Up Handcrack the best name for such a classic climb. I suggest we change the name to Jammin' Jammin' Jammin' Jammin'. Any takers?

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