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Jailhouse Rock
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Lobotomy (aka McDevitt Route) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan McDevitt
Page Views: 1,605
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Jun 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably the easiest and least steep route at Jailhouse! That being said, it still overhangs a tad.

Climb the collection of blocks through fixed draws to an anchor. Rests are relatively easy to find.

Location 

Third route from the far right of the wall.

Protection 

Fixed draws, bottom to top.


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By Caliza
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This one is called Lobotomy or McDevit Route.
By Julian Bobilev
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

People would call this 12a at Gold Wall. The crux sequence flows well with really fun footwork.
By Vlad S
Apr 11, 2016

People call a lot of the routes 5.12 at goldwall that are not. Don't use goldwall as the measuring stick, since it's an extreme outlier on the grading scale, being one of the softest crags on the entire continent. By the way, a large jug came off around 1/2 way mark in the winter of 2014/2015, making that section more awkward and the whole route a bit less appealing. It didn't affect the difficulty, since the crux is still at the 2nd bolt.
By Julian Bobilev
Apr 15, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The 2nd bolt is about .10a, are we talking about the same route? There is a crux sequence with lots of sidepull bumping between bolts 3 and 4 but since you're well rested at that point it doesn't pose much of a challenge. The redpoint crux to me is definitely linking all the moves at the last three or so bolts, since it's pretty sustained and you're tired from the rest of the route.
By Caliza
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The second bolt is a little technical but I would not consider that the crux. The first two bolts after the ledge midway is definitely more viable of a candidate to be the crux. The angle of the route is a little steeper with technical and big moves after already having climbed 40 feet. I agree Gold Wall is a soft crag, but at the same time Jailhouse is on the sandbagged end. Most crags I've been to fall between the two as far as grades go.
By John RB
From: Superior, CO
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

When I climbed this route a lot in the late 90s this was just called "the warmup" (a few people called it "McDevitt" after Dan and Sue McDevitt, the couple from the valley who presumably put the route up.

The 2nd bolt was definitely not the crux... there is a series of powerful left-to-right moves around the 4th-5th bolt that I felt was the crux. I would often hang there rather than flash pump trying to get the redpoint since this was usually the warm-up.

I miss that place. Glad to hear access is not a problem.
By Vlad S
Oct 31, 2016

I guess I meant the 3rd bolt, since I never clip the 1st. That one only protects you for 1 move from the ground, so I didn't count it for some reason. Sorry for the confusion. By bolt 4-5 you are past the hardest move, but it's still a bit sustained right before you get a no-hands rest. The rest is a jughaul and if you have a reasonably good idea of what to do it's impossible to fall off.