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(7) Jungle Cliff
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Wretched of the Earth, The S 

Warlock 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Alex Borst. Bolts by Micah Klesick, Sean da Costa, and Erik Jenson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: Charlie Egan on Apr 12, 2016

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Alex Borst on the V9 direct start to either Necro...

Description 

A stout alternate start to Oracle. Warlock ascends a gently overhanging prow with a distinct, powerful, unique crux.

This line was the inspiration for Micah Klesick to begin bolting new lines at the Jungle Cliff and recruiting others to take it on, setting off the recent wave of development.

After two bolts of moderate climbing, bust into a v9 boulder problem navigating the horn and a small crack/pocket, around the third bolt. From the giant jug at the end of the boulder problem, cut left and finish on the remainder of Oracle.

Still very dusty. Bring a brush.

Location 

Immediately to the right of the Oracle/Necromancer start

Protection 

Bolts


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By peachy spohn
Apr 14, 2016
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Way to go Alex!
By peachy spohn
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I repeated this today and had the third bolt hanger rip out on my second go :/
I have the chain and hanger if anyone would like to replace it. To comment on the route, It is really fun. I felt that the crux was hard but not consistent with the rest of the climbing and so not pumpy or that committing to redpoint (the crux is very low on the route and if you're doing it the rest of the route will be no problem). The Oracle finish, my first time on that, has great moves but is very dirty. I hope these get cleaned up because they're fun additions.
By Charlie Egan
Apr 18, 2016

I replaced the hanger on the crux bolt. My only guess as to why the nut of the bolt would unscrew is that rope drag caused the chain draw to pull the hanger in a way that slowly loosened the nut. If the new hanger becomes loose again, I'll add loktite to secure it in place.

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