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Wall of the Goddess
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Amrita T 
Isis T 
Nephthys T,TR 
Warlock T 
Yoni T 

Warlock 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: T. Bubb & L. Miller, 7/28/2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 28, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Wall of the Goddess.

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  • Description 

    Locate the Wall Of The Goddess and walk beyond all of the previously established lines to the far end where a shallow gully can be seen just before rounding the corner. Backtrack a few meters.

    You will see a few shallow flares (side-pulls) going up and left to an undercling flake (.5" cam) and then up and left to the next face via some interesting wraps and clings (crux). Gain the next face and climb a newly excavated finger and hand crack up to the end, past some horizontals and diagonals and to the summit of the Godess Wall.

    In a pagan sense, Warlock meens something different than the generally known definition of a male witch.

    "Woerloga"

    Protection 

    A standard light rack- be sure to include a .5" Alien or TCU for the crux.


    Photos of Warlock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The upper part of Warlock is highlighted in this i...
    BETA PHOTO: The upper part of Warlock is highlighted in this i...

    Comments on Warlock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 1, 2005

    crescentmagazine.com/rites/bur... "A very common misconception is that a warlock is a male Witch. This could not be further from the truth. Warlock means "oath breaker," and can be applied to either sex. A Warlock is someone who betrays the trust of a coven."

    The climb was so named because of the ribbing I was getting lately from some of my climbing partners for sport climbing so much since I busted up my ankle. This was the first trad FA I did after getting "back on my feet" after a little over a month.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 18, 2005

    Tony - could Warlock be the same as the route Shakti?

    Rossiter describes Shakti as a "difficult face and shallow crack at the left side of the Wall of the Goddess" on boulderclimbs.com/climbing/ava...

    Rossiter rates Shakti 5.12, but he has over-rated other climbs on the Wall of the Goddess.

    If Warlock is an independent line, where is it in relation to Shakti?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 19, 2005

    I highly doubt that it is the same because the switching faces move and the runout were so pronounced as to be hard not to mention in a description. I also VERY strongly suspect that Rossiter would have either excavated the crack that we did, or bolted the line to protect it, as without doing either, the route would have been R/X and not in keeping with Richard's MO on route development there.

    Warlock is no more than 3 Meters left of Yoni.

    But I don't know where Rossiter's line is... so I can't be sure... (refer to second attached image).

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