REI Community
Stepping Stones
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 
El Barrio 
El Gallito S 
Gravel Pilot T,TR 
Magie Noire S 
Pinche Guey S 
Québec Connection T,S 
Stepping Stones T 
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown Variation S 
Warlock Pinche S 
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 

Warlock Pinchers 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 42'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008

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  • Description 

    Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

    I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....

    Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

    Location 

    Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

    Protection 

    7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.


    Comments on Warlock Pinchers Add Comment
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    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Sep 25, 2008

    The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade.

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