REI Community
search
Advanced
Stepping Stones
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 
El Barrio 
El Gallito S 
Gravel Pilot T,TR 
Magie Noire S 
Pinche Guey S 
Québec Connection T,S 
Stepping Stones T 
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown Variation S 
Warlock Pinche S 
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 

Warlock Pinchers 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 42'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Direct (right) start to Magie Noire, with four bolts, joining Magie Noire over the lip of the prow/jutting roof feature. This is the eighth route in from the left, or second from the right.

I put the first bolt so you can stand on the ground and clip it to protect the opening moves. Use this, or use it to auger up and pre-clip the second, or skip this and just clip the second. Choose your own adventure....

Boulder, shouldery, on nice blue-and-black rock reminiscent of the Winchester Cave at Rifle.

Location 

Right side of the Stepping Stones sport crag.

Protection 

7 bolts plus two-bolt anchors.


Comments on Warlock Pinchers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 25, 2008

The crux is low (at the 2nd bolt) and thereafter the difficulty eases considerably. Getting off the ground may be hard for the short; at 6'1", I could just reach the starting crimper; others will have to use poor intermediates with poor feet. The crux moves are interesting; look for the hard-to-see R sidepull right of bolt 2. A modified kneebar (more like a knee sidepull) may help exiting the crux. Clearing the roof is fun but much easier than the crux grade.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About