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Warf Factor 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jessie Guthrie, 1992
Page Views: 2,771
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Aug 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Jeff making the crux reach.

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  • Description 

    This is a high quality route on the largely ignored Overhung Wall below Sport Park. No chipping or Z-clipping here. This is the 3rd route from the left and climbs out the largest section of overhanging rock. Restful, vertical slab climbing leads to fantastic, jug climbing through the overhang and a crux at the lip (a kneebar is very useful). After pulling the lip, easier slabby climbing leads to the anchors.

    Location 

    This is just to the left of the dihedral that marks the right end of the main overhang.

    Protection 

    5 or 6 bolts to chains.


    Photos of Warf Factor Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the good hold, crux is done with just runout sl...
    On the good hold, crux is done with just runout sl...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me traversing left on good holds.
    Me traversing left on good holds.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ashley starting the steep section.
    Ashley starting the steep section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff in the "5.9" section - photo of the...
    BETA PHOTO: Jeff in the "5.9" section - photo of the...

    Comments on Warf Factor Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 21, 2007
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Fun one-move route.
    By jarthur
    From: Westminster, CO
    Jul 27, 2008

    This is by far the best climb at Sport Park that I've been on. Please give me a heads up if you have any other recommendations. Awesome roof to a super rad crux at the lip.
    By tscupp
    From: Englewood, CO
    Jul 30, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    This climb is awesome. Doesn't look like it gets much traffic since it had almost no chalk on it when we began working it. *Beta* The kneebar crux is really unique, you have to get the body position just right or that next hold will feel too far away.

    Wear pants or a pad, even with pants my left knee is all cut up.
    By Jesse Guthrie
    From: Prague Czech Republic
    Jun 4, 2010

    When I first did this route, we called this area Surprising Crag... because none of the routes where chipped our over-bolted like the Sports Park, and I hope the routes are still the same way when I did the first ascents. :) Jesse
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Jun 19, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Can't comment on the knee-bar, but the full-on dyno up with the left from the same holds is big fun .12- at the hardest. Really fun, short line.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 27, 2011

    I didn't heed the advice for pants/kneepads, 'cause I thought I was tough. Turns out I'm not. On my OS attempt the kneebar cut me up enough that on my redpoint burn I taped over it. I recommend pants, kneepads, or being tougher than I.

    Fun route!

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