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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,149
Submitted By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Eye on the Prize... ML on toprope on The Warden.


Warden climbs the steep face that rises right out of the creek-bed opposite the Guard Tower. It is presently the only climb on the wall and can easily be recognized by having two sets of chains up top. The route is very steep, even overhanging at points, but with big jugs at almost every move. Short and fun. Beware of falling early and hitting the rock ledge at the bottom of the climb. Also, some of the larger holds look like they might not last forever, so beware of those too.


This route has four bolts, and not one, but two sets of anchors!

Photos of Warden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Found this old photo of the stylish Alex running u...
Found this old photo of the stylish Alex running u...
Rock Climbing Photo: These are the "Spooky Anchor's" right of...
These are the "Spooky Anchor's" right of...
Rock Climbing Photo: topo for warden.
topo for warden.

Comments on Warden Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2014
By Vincent Greene
Nov 9, 2003

Holds are pretty slick below the second bolt. Bear left after clipping the third bolt for the best holds. First ascent was Ben Burnam and Mark Brown in late 2000.
By Vincent Greene
Mar 14, 2004

There is only one set of anchors on this route.
By Jim Thompson
From: Logan, UT
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun short route.The big flakey block is real positive, but would be a disaster if it ever comes off. Nice variety on this route considering how short it is.

The second set of anchors to the right is some mystery route.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 15, 2006

As it says in the description this climb has some hollow flakes you have to clip from. The right hand set of anchors should never be used as the rock they are in may come out.
By Hillary Davis
Jun 19, 2006

The route will be fun unless/until it falls down... choss aside, it's steep and different for Lemmon.
By Hillary Davis
Jun 20, 2006

I have it on good record that the right-hand anchors belong to a 5.10 TR, and I think it's going to be bolted (not by me) as a sport lead.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 20, 2006

Before you clip into and lower or top-rope from the anchors to the right look at what they are drilled into. From above it looks like a boulder that is fractured all the way around. Also there is nothing under this rock to support it. I would rather see the route 3 feet shorter and have sound anchors.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 21, 2006

Hey Hillary, if you know the folks that are planning on putting this route up ask them why they put the anchors 3 inches apart (Minimum should be 6 or more) and more importantly in a hollow block that I could pry off with a crowbar? If they are inexperienced (as it seems) have them call me I would be happy to give them some basics about bolting. In fact if they are really in to FAs I can set them up with new routes to do. My number is in the guidebook under corrections.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 21, 2007

What makes this climb rated R? Are the rocks shaped like boobies?
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Hmm, what would that mean an X-rated climb's holds were shaped like?

The reason is the large questionable-looking block about halfway up. It's only a matter of time before someone yards it off onto their belayer. That said, it's been there for years without incident... Still, I'd stand back if I were belaying.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 12, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

that flake is dangerous, i really didn't want to pull on it but in the end i had to. chopping it might ruin the route but it also might prevent a serious accident in the not-too-distant future. plus having to pull on a massive hollow flake kind of ruins the route to begin with.

hell without the flake it might just make a decent 9+.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

totally choss. the flake in the middle is going to come off sometime, the route is 25 feet long and the anchors are not in good rock. rockfall potential and bad anchor rock negates the attractive steepness of this climb.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 21, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

i've changed my mind. the flake isn't as dangerous as i had thought at first, and it's not often that you find an overhung 5.7 on mount lemmon. i actually think this is a good, fun climb for beginners; the beginners i took here last weekend seemed to love it.
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Aug 20, 2009

I led this yesterday and stopped to pause at the flake, my belayer Adam Block took some steps back after we had discussed it might not be so strong. After I decided that I would try it I first grabbed it and weighted it , I'm about 170 and after I was over it and standing on it I felt better about it. I'm new to Lemmon ethics but I say leave it and make sure people know to watch it like others have said. For what it's worth I wouldn't do jumping jacks on it though (:
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2009

The plus on this is that there is a waist high rock a few steps back to stand behind so you have something to brace yourself on to avoid a lead fall from a hold breaking off pulling you into the path of the rock. Nice lead Derek!
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great climb. I would say the rating is more like 5.5 or 5.6, 5.6 is pushing it, but I guess these folks have never climbed in the gunks. Great fun, but it reall is no way near 5.7
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very stiff for 5.7 as compared to the other 7's in the area (Machine Gun, Birdman, Scarface, Solitary ect...)
From: tucson, az
Jan 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Fun Climb. I'm with Nick. Seems pretty pumpy for a 5.7. Added Mussy hooks at anchors.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

In its current state this is a really fun climb. Chossy, sure, but fun no less. It's rare to find an overhung 5.7-5.8ish climb with a real sequence like Warden, especially on the Lemmon. I think this route offers some nice contrast from the rest of the slab moderates at prison camp.
By jaspur Chafer
From: tucson,az
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

fun route
scary flakes
easy climbing to get up to the second clip but a fall would suck
good warm up
easy top rope
By David Adams
May 31, 2014

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