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Warbonnet Peak

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SE Face T 

Warbonnet Peak Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 10,210'
Location: 44.07987, -115.05359 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,949
Administrators: WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Mayer on Jul 20, 2015
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Catie peeking over the VERY exposed summit pinnacl...


A beautiful, remote Sawtooth peak with a memorable exposed summit pitch. Described on Summitpost as the "grand teton of Idaho". Infrequently climbed compared to many of the classic Sawtooth peaks. Loose rock is present but rock quality seemed very good. Routes include 5.7 SE face, 5.9 E face, 5.7 W face (used by the FA party of Paul Petzoldt et al in 1947), SW Rib (Dowdle) and the much harder 11+ black crystal route as well as a few others.

Getting There 

Take the redfish lake boat shuttle ($16 round trip per person) to the far end of Redfish lake (or hike the approx. 5 mi.) Follow the easy and well maintained trail for 5.5 mi to alpine lake. Continue up the trail towards the Baron lakes, until the 3rd switchback. From here, travel west, cross country through forested area, then boulder fields, to the pass just north of Pt. 9769. Aim for the small sandy pass slightly above the lowest point of the saddle. Find the climbers trail here. Continue on this trail as it sidehills the north side of Pt. 9769 before dropping down a steep, loose slope towards warbonnet lakes. Follow intermittent trails to a base camp at feather or bead lakes. Total approach is approx. 8mi/3000 vertical.

From camp, head northwest past bead lakes and boulder hop your way approx. 1000 vertical to the 9800' saddle just east of the obvious warbonnet peak. the SE face route starts from this saddle.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Warbonnet Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Warbonnet Peak:
SE Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Warbonnet Peak

Featured Route For Warbonnet Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 tunnel, climber just down climbed the choc...

SE Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak
The most commonly climbed route up Warbonnet Peak. more of a technical mountaineering experience than pure rock climb. contains many unique pitches, including a squeeze tunnel, splitter handcrack at 10,000ft and a wonderfully exposed summit pitch. Additional info can be found on Summitpost P1 - 5.4, approx 28m up to one of 2 trees on a ledge. going to the R tree looked a little harder and adds more traversing to pitch 2. belay from slung tree....[more]   Browse More Classics in Idaho

Photos of Warbonnet Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summiting Warbonnet in 1979
Summiting Warbonnet in 1979
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach from Alpine Lake, sidehill north of Pt. 9...
BETA PHOTO: Approach from Alpine Lake, sidehill north of Pt. 9...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pt. 9769 on the trail-less portion of the approach...
BETA PHOTO: Pt. 9769 on the trail-less portion of the approach...
Rock Climbing Photo: alpenglow on the SE face, as seen from camp at fea...
alpenglow on the SE face, as seen from camp at fea...

Comments on Warbonnet Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wilderness Climber
Aug 14, 2015
If you add new webbing to a route, please be sure to remove old, weathered webbing. Let's keep this wilderness climb pristine.

If you camp in the area remember campfires are NOT allowed. Campfires in the Goat Creek Drainage are illegal!
Be sure to pack out what you pack in.
It is a privilege to recreate in the wilderness.
By splitclimber
Jul 11, 2017
FYI - Warbonnet Peak is mis-labeled on Google. They plot it south of Braxon Lake. Finally looked at the topo approach beta pic on here which straightened me out.

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