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War Zone

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War Zone Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: drewford on Jan 24, 2011
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View of War Zone (right) and Aftershock wall (left...

Description 

West-facing wall with very dark patina features. About 100 yards south of the Aftershock Wall. This area is full of hits and misses...most of which are misses.

The climbing can be tough and the routes rather long. The grades sit mostly in the mid .11 range with a few .12-ish pitches.

Getting There 

Park at the Pioneer Names pullout and walk east 5 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Island In The Sky area.

Weather station 7.2 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in War Zone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for War Zone:
The Richness of It All   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in War Zone

Featured Route For War Zone
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P1

The Richness of It All 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Utah : Saint George : ... : War Zone
Fun sport route with varied face and hueco climbing. There is a short approach ramp (50 feet, 3 bolts) that doesn't really count as a pitch. The first true pitch is a good warm up at 5.11-. The second pitch is the crux and is a test of technical edge skills. The third pitch wanders up and left to a thin section above an overlap (5.11). The last pitch is not to be missed. Easy 5.10 huecos and edges take you up a twisted arete 350' above the canyon....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on War Zone Add Comment
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By BigNobody
From: all over, mostly Utah
Jan 23, 2017
This wall was the site of a unique "war" at the time. Ron Olvesky had brought his Zion tactics over here. But instead of manufacturing pin scars he was manufacturing holds. It was typical 80's "lets see where the boundary is". Although, knowing Ron, it was just what he wanted to fucking do. And don't mess with it.

He drilled out the pocket's and chipped the edges on Dr.Yes and Black Massacre. Making a fun 4 pitch manufactured route in the process. The Snow Canyon rangers did not approve of his using a drill to make holds and brought out a 12 foot extension ladder and epoxied his drilled pockets shut.

Now if you know Ron this drove him mad. After hearing the news he went back out there and started drilling them back out. This went back and forth a couple times from my dusty memory. Finally the rangers found him out there re-drilling the pockets. A few expletives were exchanged. I think Ron had a firearm (usually does), whether he brandished it or not had always been up for debate.

Ron is banned from Snow Canyon to this day I believe. Ah, the good old days.

Ron created most of the well traveled classics in Zion and Snow canyon. He had quite the untouched play ground and vision. I still tip my hat to him.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 26, 2017
Yep, that's Ronnie O. Quite a character. Climbing used to have (and still needs) colorful characters. I'll never forget witnessing a scene between Ron and Mugs Stump. Ron was bragging about how he was going to drill pockets all the way up the right side of the Monkeyfinger dihedral. Mugs loomed over Ron, punched his finger in his chest and said, "Do and I'll break you in half." Ron beat a hasty retreat.
By bus driver
Jan 27, 2017
A friend went to a "climbing in zion" slide show in the 90's at Outdoor Outlet. Ron said there was a route near one in one of the slides from the back of theroom. He then proceeded to point it out with a laser pointer. When people turned around to see him talking they saw the laser pointer was actually a laser scope attached to the pistol he was packing that night. . . lots of memorable "Ron O" stories. Glad I was in Southern Utah at a time to hear them.

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