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Unsorted Routes:

War Zone 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sean Bradley
Page Views: 1,941
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Cory Fleagle cruising the upper section of War Zon...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


War Zone is another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception.

Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.


Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Photos of War Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of War Zone. A nice break from burly c...
First pitch of War Zone. A nice break from burly c...

Comments on War Zone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2016
By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003

The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 22, 2005

A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention!
By Chris Beh
Jun 21, 2010

There is an intermediate anchor above the 5.9 trad section before the hard climbing. This is a great route by itself, climbs more like a City of Rocks,ID route. I'd rate it PG13, and it requires some concentration above small gear.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2011

A really cool climb! Link the two pitches together and keep a cool head as the 2nd pitch is mainly old button heads and thin holds. Awesome though how they just keep popping up as you need them to keep it at the grade! Go straight up from the last bolt to find the anchors.

So you know, the second button head on the head wall is rusty. Would be great if someone replaced those with decent hardware some day. At least the final bolt has already been replaced. Also, a green Alien is very nice in the horizontal before the last bolt.
By honeyjacket
Apr 7, 2015

Anyone know about the bolted thing that leads to a crack to the left of this? I checked it out lowering off the bottom War Zone anchors, and it looks pretty cool, but it needs a cleaning. I'd be pretty surprised if it hasn't been done, even if it was aiding the bolts to get to it.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 7, 2015

Per the first edition of Zach's book, it was a Matt Couppel project. That book came out close to a decade ago though, so if its still a project, it should be reclassified as an open project.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Good, sustained, thin, face climbing on the upper face. The SMC buttonheads are all spinners and essentially all rusted. I was quite relieved to get small gear in the horizontal before the final (bomber) eye bolt. This route would be a good candidate for hardware replacement. It appears that War Zone is toproped almost daily and led very rarely.
By Jason Haas
Jul 16, 2016

In reference to the two-bolt traverse route into the crack just left of War Zone et al, I was told this line was never actually completed. Maybe I'm wrong. Either way, I sent it about a month ago after trying it a few random times over the last two years. I'd say 12+(ish).
By honeyjacket
Jul 25, 2016

Whoa! Nice work, Jason. I've tried it a few times myself and could never quite figure the face traverse into the crack. Very intriguing line! I've also been told it hasn't been completed from the ground yet, though I'm definitely not the bookkeeper.
By smassey
From: CO
Aug 7, 2016

The three 5/16" buttonheads on the second section were replaced with 1/2" x 2.75" SS Powers bolts on 8/7/16 with hardware donated by the Boulder Climbing Community. In addition, the buttonhead in the anchor was also replaced. The original holes were reused to keep the original character of the route.
By Chris Kalman
Oct 8, 2016

Onsighted the other day - just spectacular! The bottom 5.9 was incredibly fun, definitely safe (although not a sew-up). There's good gear just right of the first anchor which keeps the rope drag down some, and there's even a nice piece up high before the headwall finish (I enjoyed just lucking into having the right size piece while onsighting - so I won't ruin anyone else's OS by spraying what piece it is).

The grade is spot on, and it's a really beautiful climb. Also, with the new bolts (thanks, Smassey!), the thing is safe and fun the whole way. Get on it!

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