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War With A Rack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,518
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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OK climb, but better than going to Iraq.


Hike the main trail to the cliff. Look for a crack/corner system just right of the bolted prow of "Wholely Holy, Lord God Almight". With two possiblities at the start, select the nice-looking handcrack through a bulge on the right. Work up the steep corner above to the ledge atop the prow on the left. Set a directional piece (2"-2.5") to keep the rope hanging clean down the corner, clip the bolted anchor on the left, and lower off the left side of the prow. It only gets one star at the present time because of lichen and a couple of loosies that are easily bypassed. Otherwise, it is a nice crack that will take all the gear you can throw at it.

Addendum: one can also climb the bulging crack shown to the right of the climber at the start.


Gear, double 1" - 3" cams or hexes, two-bolt anchor on top of "Wholly Holely".

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By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Dec 21, 2015

As of Dec. 18, 2015, there is a #1 Camalot stuck in the upper crack. Leo P. thought hitting downward with a chisel might get it out, but he worked on it for 15 mins or so with a nut pick.

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