REI Community
search
82 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crème de la Choss S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Quills  S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

War on Drugs 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route should be seeing more traffic now that a direct start (a la "Kid Charlemagne") is an option. This lengthy pitch ascends the clean, black-streaked, striated wall that continues above "Kid Charlemagne". What a line!!

    From the rap anchors of "Kid Charlemagne", traverse right about 10 feet on a foot rail aiming for a nice horizontal that will take a .5 Camalot. Make a couple of slab moves up to a bolt (perhaps back cleaning the .5 after clipping the bolt to reduce drag), then continue straight up passing more bolts, a few opportunities for some decent gear, and a few rest ledges.

    Though this route is well protected, expect some halting (read: thoughtful) moves above your protection. Big, clean falls are real possibility if you blow the sequence on several of these sections.

    The route tops out the cliff on a clean section of featured rock, offering a nice view of Bolton Valley. Belay off the large, obvious pine about 30 feet from the edge of the cliff.

    Location 

    At the far right end of the big wall section, above the anchor for "Kid Charlemagne". One can also gain access to this pitch by climbing a somewhat dirty--but easy--5.6 to the right of "Kid".

    Protection 

    Many QDs (a few double length runners to reduce some drag) and a single rack from a green Alien to a .75 Camalot.


    Comments on War on Drugs Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Apr 15, 2017

    CONDITION REPORT 
    The bolts on this route were all inspected and replaced as needed between 04.14.2017 and 04.15.2017. Seven of the bolts on the route ended up showing one sign or another of not functioning properly and were replaced with glue-ins.
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A very fun pitch, deserving of the increased popularity the Kid Charlemagne start will no doubt confer.
    By mattseverson
    From: Corinth, VT
    Apr 12, 2017

    It's a rope stretcher to link Kid Charl and War on DRugs with a 60m. As of this writing there is no fixed anchor to belay/rap off at the tree, so bring a long cord if you'd like to get a cliffs edge view of your second. This won't be an issue if splitting the pitches up. Also be aware that, if you do rap WOD, a 60m might not get you to the Kid Charl anchors. I was able to rap, with doubles, from the top of WOD to the ground with no issues. If in doubt, scramble down climber's left ( right if facing the view of Bolton valley) to the ARms REduction anchors and rap to quills, then down.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About