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War Games 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Seth Tart, Jim Maddox, Chris Huffine
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: S Tart on Jul 4, 2013

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No doubt your going to war but its more pleasure than pain. Climb the steep and towering arete that looms over the back of the gully. Climb its left side and plow past the first bolt to a thin horizontal seam, where you want to have one or two of your smallest tcu sizes available (0-00). Don't mess around long as your guns are still ablaze. Rush to the next piece of gear and a short cease fire. Put in a fresh clip and fire your way thru good gear, even better holds, one more bolt and the red point crux.

A 12c direct start begins from the lower deck that adds another 15' of bouldery moves before you even hit the initial power crux. You will need a couple of nuts. Of the two, the best line is from the top.

This route is loads of fun for gear at this grade.


20 feet left of The Recommendation. Boulder up the back of the gully to the next level.Start beneath and just left of the first bolt.


Two bolts and very small to medium size cams. Fixed nut anchors.

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By gloomis
Jun 20, 2014

Fun route! Get's at you right from the start and keeps it on until the anchors. Get on it

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