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War Drums 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Darrah and Chuck McGrosky, 1989
Fixed Hardware: 1 Other Bolt [details]
Page Views: 221
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jun 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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At the first gear.... After this, you can make it...

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  • Description 

    This is a great climb. I hope this one doesn't get "modernized" as it wouldn't be as fun without the fear factor.

    The mental crux is getting to the first bolt, and the thinnest climbing is the section around the first 2 bolts. There is basically no gear until the first bolt, but the climbing isn't hard and you can get a small cam right bellow the bolt. From here up, there is plenty of tiny gear if you look for it. Small Aliens, C3s, pink tri-cams in flared horizontal slots. The biggest thing you need is a 0.5 C4 (purple). It goes in the only gear placement you can see from the ground.... After the 2nd bolt, things ease up and at a tiny twig of a tree you have to make a decision. You can head up right, which looks really easy, or stay to the left and move up into a steep pegmatite section. Only then will you see the last bolt a 1/4 inch button head. Hopefully you have placed some gear in-between the bolts? The steep part is fun and easy, but you never know when one of those big crystals will just fall off and you probably don't want to test that bolt! Head up to the tree and wonder if it will support your weight....

    This route has some of the best rock on this crag. I think it was spared from the dynamite? Steep slab moves and easy face climbing with a touch of excitement.

    Location 

    This route is on the face just right of the big Hummingbird corner. Look for two bolts a ways up.

    Protection 

    Small cams and 3 questionable bolts (1st 2 are 5/16" (this was an uneducated guess) with SMC hangers, the 3rd is a buttonhead). There are slings with links on a tree for an anchor. The tree is small and unhealthy looking.


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    By Greg Barnes
    Aug 1, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead.

    Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt replacement and donate! safeclimbing.org
    By George Bracksieck
    Aug 14, 2015

    I led this four or five years ago, finding only two bolts. Sounds like the third bolt wasn't worth finding. I did find lots of placements in horizontals, using C3s up through #1 Cam. So three new bolts is more than plenty.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Jul 15, 2016

    Maybe the nicest route at the crag.

    I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired.

    Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals.

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