REI Community
Ulamertorsuaq
Select Route:
War and Poetry T 

War and Poetry 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 31 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dalphin, Piola, Probost, Wiestlibach 1983 as Geneva Diedre, 5.10 A4. FFA Bechtel-Bechtel-Lilygren-Mallamo-Model-Piana-Skinner 1998.
Season: Summer
Page Views: 385
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Aug 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: topo

Description 

This route was first climbed by a Swiss team in 1983, and named the Geneva Diedre. A large American team worked on it in 1998, freeing it and and renaming it "War and Poetry".

Not sure the thinking of the FFA team, but to me the name reflects the climbing style of the route, though in reverse order.

The lower half, through pitch 17, is mostly poetic and graceful face climbing, up an ever-steeping slab. The crux of this section is a series of 4 tricky pitches, 13-17.

The next section is war. The massive right-facing dihedral that forms the upper half is unrelentingly physical, with steep flares and wide cracks. If you're not honed on this style, the OW pitches could feel severely sandbagged.

Above the OW section, the beautiful Bowstring crack provides two pitches of difficult finger crack.

Descend by rapping the route with two 60m ropes. The Black Heart ledge is a mediocre bivy for two, as is the p23 ledge.

Location 

Up the middle of the massize west face of Ulamersortuaq, into the long RF dihedral.

The route starts up some ledges shared with Moby Dick, and then traverse out right onto the face. See photo.

Protection 

Double set of cams to #3, single 4-6. 16 QDs, stoppers and RPs.


Photos of War and Poetry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch, a series of shallow flakes with po...
The crux pitch, a series of shallow flakes with po...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "War" section, a long and wide dihed...
The "War" section, a long and wide dihed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blake Herrington and Bryan Gilmore following one o...
Blake Herrington and Bryan Gilmore following one o...
Rock Climbing Photo: The ledge-y first pitches of "Moby Dick"...
BETA PHOTO: The ledge-y first pitches of "Moby Dick"...
Rock Climbing Photo: The west face of Ulamersortuaq
BETA PHOTO: The west face of Ulamersortuaq

Comments on War and Poetry Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About