||Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Adam Winters, Jeremy Freeman - OS/GU - Oct 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, fall|
|Page Views: ||115|
|Submitted By: ||AWinters on Mar 31, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: 'Wanted Man' topo
Fun and varied climbing. The start can go one of two ways- The left option isn't bad when you figure out the high-step move, and the right way feels like 5.11 just getting off the ground (without the cheat-stones). The choice is yours, but the climbing above is worth the effort.
Pitch 1: Pull an unprotected funky high-step/rock-over move down low and left on the slab to reach edges and the flake (crux). OR, start to the right in the seam with a tough move off the ground with or without cheater-stones (crux). Work up and right following the nice flake, thru a wider section until you reach the short finger crack in the hidden right-facing corner. Step left around the arete via a large high foothold and work up and left to the thin flake. Continue straight up to the short 'V' groove then make a big step right into the main crack system just below the sketchy-looking block. Climb up to the belay stance just left of the detached block (same belay as 'Breaking & Entering').
Pitch 2: Same as 'B&E'. Step up and right, under the tree, then up the slab slightly left to the finger crack/seam above. Follow into the next crack on the right, then up to the big ledge. Build an anchor.
Descent: Rappel off the mussies at the end of pitch 1, or after pitch 2 scramble up then right along the ledge to one of the two descent gullies (4th class).
Just left of 'Breaking & Entering', near the very left side of the slab.
Standard rack to 3"
BETA PHOTO: The bottom of 'Wanted Man'
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Apr 16, 2012
Climbed this route as of March 2012 and there were shiny new? mussey hooks after the finger crack on the slab. About 15-20 feet up and right from where it seemed the gear belay was. We rapelled off from here with 2 ropes.
Also, neither one of us wanted to commit to the hard start with what we thought was a bad landing, so we led up the gully between "Wanted Man" and "Breaking and Entering" and traversed into "Wanted Man" just below the hidden crack in the right facing corner. I'd rate the start maybe 5.7+, which made the route for us 5.7+. An awesome single pitch romp!