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Wanna Play Doctor? 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Joel McKillop
Season: You can play doctor all day long if there is no snow!
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: BBQ on Sep 11, 2011

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Jack climbing Wanna Play Doctor?

Description 

For all of you who have wondered if Shaggy was always hungry because he smoked illicet substances, my guess is that you also wondered if the Brady kids ever "played doctor".

To that idea I only have one reply, "YOU PEOPLE NEED HELP!"

Or a hobby, one of the two.

For those of you whose hobbies include getting sandbagged, try this climb out for size.

This fifth route, as you move from left to right, is listed in the guidebook as a 5.9. And it just might be a 5.9 for the stud horses who bolt these climbs, but for me, after about three rides and a few hangs I managed to figure out a sequence which gets me to the anchors. After a few rounds of this form of self-abuse, myself, and everyone I have brought here believes that this route clocks in at least 5.10c.

Go ahead and play doctor. Give us your diagnosis.

A tricky start with a technical sequence to a two finger pocket makes this climb not a 5.9 right off the deck. The next series of moves are fun, stout and the climbing is quite a bit more sustained than the first two Bradyisms.

Somewhere around the middle of the climb you start working your way up a series of left and right flake holds that abruptly come to an end at about the third to last bolt

Here's the next crux! Good luck figuring it out!

The rest of the climb is a long, drawn out series of crimps and jugs between widely spaced bolts. If you don't make the next bolt or bail off before the anchors expect to take a long whipper.

Don't let this description deter you! Get on this thing! It is spectacular!

Location 

Fifth route from the left.

Plan accordingly, the belay station starts to slope here.

Protection 

Bring ten quickdraws. Open shut anchors.


Photos of Wanna Play Doctor? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: And the red rope is finally hanging on this sustai...
And the red rope is finally hanging on this sustai...
Rock Climbing Photo: Going for the anchors.
Going for the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, after finally getting the middle crux.
Me, after finally getting the middle crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Going for the middle crux.
Going for the middle crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: A tricky and sequential start.
A tricky and sequential start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry getting after it.
Jerry getting after it.

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