Wankers Columns Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Beautiful thin 5.11 sustained finger crack
This short crag hosts a fair amount of stiff and thin finger cracks, as well as a few hand cracks. Routes run from 30'-50', and tend to be sustained in nature. There are multiple anchors at the tops for TR or lead, and still multiple very thin FA's waiting to be had.
There is Poison Oak at the base, but from October through April, it is dormant, and poses little risk. It could be easily cleaned up as well if a few people took it on for a day. The rock is pretty good quality, fairly smooth, and very clean.
This area is more of a winter area due to summer heat, and poison oak levels in the summer. Could be a great sport to go climb trad when Beacon is wet or closed, as this area stays dry much of the time due to its eastern location.
The hike in is a pleasant 15-20 min hike up fairly mellow rolling hills. Park where the the Old Hwy 8 meets Hwy 14 and Draco Lake. Walk up the old road for a couple hundred yards until you see a sign and trail on the right. Follow the trail, staying to the right at all the forks, until you come to a waterfall (it was dry when I was there). Follow the trail up and around the waterfall to the left, cross the creek on a wood plank, and then in about 200' you will see the columns standing about 200'-300' off to the right of the trail and up on a little knoll. There are faint trails to the base on both ends of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Southwest Cascades area.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wankers Columns
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wankers Columns :
Featured Route For Wankers Columns
BETA PHOTO: One of the few hand cracks.
BETA PHOTO: a few of the middle columns
BETA PHOTO: Potential free ascent waiting!
BETA PHOTO: narrow stem box and tips crack
BETA PHOTO: looking up at one of the thin routes
BETA PHOTO: few of the middle columns
BETA PHOTO: From the south side
BETA PHOTO: In the distance from the trail
Feb 24, 2016
Went out here for the first time today. Lovely little place. When we were trying to find The Measure of Pleasure (5.8) we were able to find everything except the detached column and chimney climb. It took us a second, but we discovered that the column has fallen. Quite the bummer as we were looking forward to giving it a go.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 19, 2016
That's a good reminder to always bolt anchors on small pillars with a bolt on two pillars, so if the pillar happens to be loose, you don't have both bolts on one pillar.