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Wankers Columns

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Wankers Columns  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.70752, -121.38987 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,112
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2015
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Beautiful thin 5.11 sustained finger crack

Description 

This short crag hosts a fair amount of stiff and thin finger cracks, as well as a few hand cracks. Routes run from 30'-50', and tend to be sustained in nature. There are multiple anchors at the tops for TR or lead, and still multiple very thin FA's waiting to be had.
There is Poison Oak at the base, but from October through April, it is dormant, and poses little risk. It could be easily cleaned up as well if a few people took it on for a day. The rock is pretty good quality, fairly smooth, and very clean.
This area is more of a winter area due to summer heat, and poison oak levels in the summer. Could be a great sport to go climb trad when Beacon is wet or closed, as this area stays dry much of the time due to its eastern location.

Getting There 

The hike in is a pleasant 15-20 min hike up fairly mellow rolling hills. Park where the the Old Hwy 8 meets Hwy 14 and Draco Lake. Walk up the old road for a couple hundred yards until you see a sign and trail on the right. Follow the trail, staying to the right at all the forks, until you come to a waterfall (it was dry when I was there). Follow the trail up and around the waterfall to the left, cross the creek on a wood plank, and then in about 200' you will see the columns standing about 200'-300' off to the right of the trail and up on a little knoll. There are faint trails to the base on both ends of the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wankers Columns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wankers Columns :
Log Flume   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wankers Columns

Featured Route For Wankers Columns
Rock Climbing Photo: Demonstrating the stemming that gets you up. Did n...

Sluice Box 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WA : Southwest Cascades : Wankers Columns
Start up easy ledges (start of Nuggets) and then squeeze into the stem box. If the bottom section of the box was cleaned you could start straight up stemming probably... Mid section allows you to have some moves using the arête right/left. The final 2/3 is steeper and requires strenuous stemming....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Wankers Columns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the few hand cracks.
BETA PHOTO: One of the few hand cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: a few of the middle columns
BETA PHOTO: a few of the middle columns
Rock Climbing Photo: Potential free ascent waiting!
BETA PHOTO: Potential free ascent waiting!
Rock Climbing Photo: narrow stem box and tips crack
BETA PHOTO: narrow stem box and tips crack
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at one of the thin routes
BETA PHOTO: looking up at one of the thin routes
Rock Climbing Photo: South side
BETA PHOTO: South side
Rock Climbing Photo: few of the middle columns
BETA PHOTO: few of the middle columns
Rock Climbing Photo: From the south side
BETA PHOTO: From the south side
Rock Climbing Photo: In the distance from the trail
BETA PHOTO: In the distance from the trail

Comments on Wankers Columns Add Comment
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By benson87
From: Portland
Feb 24, 2016
Went out here for the first time today. Lovely little place. When we were trying to find The Measure of Pleasure (5.8) we were able to find everything except the detached column and chimney climb. It took us a second, but we discovered that the column has fallen. Quite the bummer as we were looking forward to giving it a go.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 19, 2016
That's a good reminder to always bolt anchors on small pillars with a bolt on two pillars, so if the pillar happens to be loose, you don't have both bolts on one pillar.