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Wango 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Zach Orenczack & Matt Flicek 2000
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Ralph Swansen on Jul 4, 2016

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Andy following at the dike.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wango is a spicy and fun pitch.

Start at a left-leaning, flared crack that leads to a dike. Climb the dike and clip a bolt. Head left and jam through a roof to a blind jug. This is not an intro 5.10.

Location 

This is climber's left and below all other climbs on this wall.

Protection 

Tricky gear. Rack to a #2. I used two #0.3s.

It has a manky nut/ hex anchor at the top that could use a new sling/ cordellette.


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By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Jul 4, 2016

Manky nut/ hex anchor at top that could use a new sling/ cordellette.
By A. Bandos
Jul 4, 2016

Super memorable climbing. Big, fun moves in the upper crack.

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