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Rusty Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Finish What You Started T 
Maneater, The T,TR 
O'Kelley's Crack T 
Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 
Slapshot T 
Wangerbanger T 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, 1975
Page Views: 12,763
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (115)
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Angelina climbing smoothly through the crux of Wan...


Indian Creek at the Tree!!! The routes at Rusty Wall are fairly unusual by J-Tree standards: steep straight-in jamming more reminiscent of the Utah Desert that your typical quartz monzonite crag. You have O'Kelleys on the right side which tackles a desperate boulder problem to beautiful hands. To the left is O'Kelley's shorter but more demanding brother, Wangerbanger. Wangerbanger is fairly straight-forward by 5.11 J-Tree standards... no dicking with funky RPs, just plugging cams and climbing. As a result many people generally consider this fairly soft for 11c, though the percentage of leaders that end up dangling at the crux, just below the pod, is probably just as high as any other similarly graded climb.

So, anyway: The climb is short, but pithy. The crack begins as wide hands but thins to ring-locks just below the pod. Crank into the pod and cop a decent rest. The crux will be somewhere just below the pod depending on your hand size, though getting into the pod is also burly as hell. Continue upward through the pod system (harder than it looks!) to a funky mantle at the top.


2 sets of cams from blue TCU to #3 camalot. Nuts are useful for setting up a belay.

Photos of Wangerbanger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty Wall, showing Wangerbanger (L) and O'Kelley'...
BETA PHOTO: Rusty Wall, showing Wangerbanger (L) and O'Kelley'...
Rock Climbing Photo: This beastie's overhung... Middle section is eithe...
This beastie's overhung... Middle section is eithe...
Rock Climbing Photo: WB on a mild day in btwn the hot stretches.  Cool ...
WB on a mild day in btwn the hot stretches. Cool ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux, finally! Photo by Conner Kruse
Past the crux, finally! Photo by Conner Kruse
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up
Looking up
Rock Climbing Photo: Dimes on early repeat of Wangerbanger. 1976?
Dimes on early repeat of Wangerbanger. 1976?
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber in crux.
Unknown climber in crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wangerbanger
Rock Climbing Photo: Wangerbanger. Photo by Blitzo.
Wangerbanger. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephen given' her a go
Stephen given' her a go

Comments on Wangerbanger Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2017
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Funny thing how the start of O'Kelley's is harder than any single move on this route. Deep hands to start and then the short crux (.75 Camalot size) with a finger crack exit move. One of the best cracks in J Tree IMO.
By Dynomight510
Sep 12, 2003

An awesome line require crack skills used in areas like Indian Creek Utah. Very straightforward crack jamming on a very steep wall. There is a rest pod before the crux and a rest pod after the crux off finger section. Endurance pays off on this route it seems. Fire a cam, clip and jam (repeat till you summit)The wall faces east so this gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Not much shelter from the wind.

Best quality I have done in J Tree. More similare to IC than O'Kelly's

hand and finger size determine the grade as the tradition of crack ratings have shown.
By Murf
Sep 13, 2003

I disagree with the IC comment. The crux thin hands section is too short and offset. More than anything the offset is what makes this section so hard, its not a straight in jam. In IC it would be more like 100' of green Camalots ( and 5.12 to boot ), but straight in and straight up. In and above the upper pod is pure JT as well, lots of nooks and cranny's and a few face holds as well. Amazing how a crack this short feels like an endurance route.
By Dynomight510
Sep 15, 2003

I agree with Murf on the specific traits of this crack compared to cracks at Indian Creek. This crack is quite parallel and requires off finger techniques at the crux. I misused the phrase 'staightforward crack jamming'.
By Rob Dillon
Mar 7, 2005

Everybody knows that through a miraculous geologic exception there are no offsets among the 6 trillion or so cracks in IC.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 31, 2005


Start 5.9 hands, "To short, would like about 20 more feet of this section", to a thin steep crux. Good protection. The difficulty of the crux will very with hand size. Don't be afraid to fire this one on lead, you can get great gear before the crux (15 or so feet) with a very clean fall.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 24, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Maybe the best 5.11 in Josh. Stellar rock quality and moves. About the "offset"...I think of an offset as one side of the crack sticking out farther than the other. And going into the second pod this is the case, but in the crux ringlocks section where it's not really "offset" what makes this awkward is that the crack goes into the wall at an angle, i.e. it's not perpendicular to the face of the wall. Crux is about a bodylength of tight hands and rings. Recommended rack, single set of fingers to cups with doubles in the #1 and #0.75 camalot sizes.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 23, 2008

crux aside, top out is no cake walk, either. section takes a #1,#2 camalot very well.

TR anchor takes small nuts and cams. a bit difficult to keep the rope out of the crack, though.
By meyerx
Dec 2, 2008

The difference would be if you were climbing one of
the millions of 0.75 offsets in IC, it'd be a punishing
100 feet of it versus a few moves.

Regardless, great route! Despite the appearance, it
surprisingly didn't require much wide gear. One 3.5
friend, then everything else smaller (1 #2.5 friend,
1 #1 camelot, 1 #2 friend, 1 0.75 camelot, #0.5 friend
and #1 friend). A large hex at the lip is helpful to
keep the rope from falling into the crack.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

An fabulous route and one of my favorites (so far) at Josh. Not too hard for the grade (at least for JT) and great pro the whole way. As previously stated, the top-out is no gimme either, but there is a nice no hands rest just before to de-pump.
By jbones
From: prescott, az
Dec 17, 2009

One of the greats! Its definitely desperate getting into that second pod.
By Frost
Dec 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Beautiful. If you can ringlock, this thing is WAY easier than O'Kelley's.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Definitely NOT Indian Creek...WAY J as they say...bouldery and powerful high quality movement. Pod was the crux for me. Friends 3.5, (2)2, 1.5, (2).75
By Tradiban
Apr 23, 2013

This thing is hand size dependent, 11c is fair for even medium size hands. I removed the pesky .75 in the way at the crux, you're welcome.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Just to reiterate what everyone else here has said - this thing is awesome. Protects quite well, although there are some flexing/loose blocks in one of the pods but you can easily protect in a horizontal or just man up (which I failed to do) and punch it.

Stellar crack workout through a variety of sizes. Crux was pretty gnarly for me as perfect hands for me are #3 mantle at the end to really tie the whole thing together. Stellar route that felt like something that should be on the Cookie Cliff in the Valley more than a sandstone desert crack as others have purported. 5 stars either way...will leave a smile on your face.
By busik
Feb 18, 2014

very cool route.
thin hands section is cruxy but short. and i did not find any mantle on the top. couple nice fingerlocks instead. there was also ok chicken-wing rest before the last few moves.
i have medium hands (perfect hand is between #1 and #2 C4) and it felt more like 10d-11a (i.e. enduro corner on AM was much much harder for me).
By dnaiscool
Mar 29, 2015

Just a historical footnote: Mike Jaffe belayed Tobin when he did the FA. And he did the route without cams...keep that in mind, or...better yet...try leading it like Tobin did, with hexes and stoppers...YIKES!!
By rafael
From: Berkeley, CA
Mar 9, 2017

I could barely get a thin hands even just above the pod, so I had to ringlock all the way to the second pod, and my hands are maybe yellow C4. Thin hands pumpfest to the top? HA! My partner has smaller hands and managed to thin hands most of the part I had to ringlock, YMMV
The topout is hard, but not that bad, I found the desperate move into the second pod harder, but I imagine the difference between those moves is finger size dependent.

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