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Wandering Stone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Matt Franklin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: Matt Franklin on Apr 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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No overnight camping on PG&E property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the big block above the awesome oak tree 'bench' to a small ledge above first bolt, then work your way up the face on good holds.

Location 

To the left of 'Second Time Around'

Protection 

7 quick draws and currently just hangers at the top. You can also pretty easily setup a top rope for this and 'Second Time Around'.


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By Mike Whipple
Apr 8, 2016

Hi Matt. I just climbed this today(April 7,2016) and felt it was well bolted for the terrain given. I did feel it was more 5.9. My 2 cents. Ps I put a couple thick,quick links on top but think 2 more would make the others feel less lonely;-) Thanks for a fun route man!
By Matt Franklin
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 8, 2016

Thanks Mike! Glad you enjoyed it. I'll go back next chance I get and add some chains to your links so they have some good company. I agree there are a few moves in the climb that push into the 5.9 realm I'll up the grade. I was on the fence about it myself but hadn't any other input. Appreciate the feedback!!
By Ales Kobrle
From: San Jose
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice route, but feels more like 10b.
By Sergey Shevelev
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Unless I missed something, the move just before you get to clip the second bolt is not 5.8 or 5.9 move. I've seen it done in 2 different ways, but both of them do not seem 5.8 or 5.9, and more like 5.10. Also, if you fall before clipping that second bolt, there's potential to hit the ledge (which I've seen too).
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There's a few different ways of doing it. Some easier than others.

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