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Wandering Star 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Gene Ellis and Hector Galbraith, 1994
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Luis Barandiaran on May 22, 2007

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Hanging out under the roof while clouds pass over.

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Probably named for the route's nature and the Portishead song released the same year, this quality route ascends the left side of the west face of Gnome Dome. The rock quality is reminiscent of Lumpy Ridge and is in a beautiful, isolated setting. Begin at an obvious ripply seam 50 feet left of the large roof at the bottom center of the dome. Two fairly long pitches follow discontinuous seams up and a little to the left with sparse/questionable pro every 20'. Some of the moves are insecure and not well protected. Lower crux comes at an interesting clean-cut keystone shape at your chest (this looks freshly broken and goes at 5.6, maybe 5.7). These 2 pitches lead up to a ledge beneath the entry to the headwall (Rossiter's topo is very good for this). Crank through the weakness and into the terrific hand crack to the top. This is a very good pitch.

Due to the nature of the protection, this route isn't recommended for leaders breaking into the grade.


Skip downclimbing beneath the Orange Arete (5.4) and bring your gear up with you and decend the walk-down to the east. Uneasy scrambling down the reverse "C" gully of pine trees brings you down the east side of the dome. At the same height of the large roof on Goblins Slab we found new-ish webbing with a rap ring. 80' takes you down by the beginning of Goblins Slab, a great moderate in its own right. Climb and repeat as necessary....


Standard rack.

Photos of Wandering Star Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the start of Wandering Star.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start of Wandering Star.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ahhh... that first piece.
Ahhh... that first piece.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wandering Star is the climb on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Wandering Star is the climb on the left.

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