REI Community
Lower Beer Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternoon Delight T 
Anteater T 
Backs against the Wall T 
Blacksmith T 
Clutch and Cruise T 
Coors Corner T 
Detoxification T,TR 
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 
Equis T,TR 
Joey Baggadonuts T 
Lichenbrau T 
Pat Tricks T 
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 
Pegasus T 
Redrum T 
Rockaholic T 
Supercharged T 
Sword T 
Turbocharge T 
Wandering Lunatic S 

Wandering Lunatic 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88
Page Views: 1,610
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wandering Lunatic, Beer Walls, ADK.


This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.

Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.

Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)

Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.

Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)


About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.


7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.

Photos of Wandering Lunatic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Duca on his onsight attempt.  Photo by, Tim ...
Chris Duca on his onsight attempt. Photo by, Tim ...

Comments on Wandering Lunatic Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About