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Wandering in the Wilderness 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan McQuade
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 6, 2016

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  • Wilderness Study Area MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This is a fun route that is a bit tricky to read - probably due to lack of traffic. The climb takes the leftmost line of bolts off the ramp to an anchor in the highest roof. Begin by scrambling up the ramp via the fixed line and have your belayer perch on the first level spot you come to - perhaps best to have him/her clip in to the lone cold-shut bolt for safety. Either stick clip the first bolt and climb directly up, or traverse in from the right clipping an off-route bolt then back-cleaning once the first bolt is clipped. Some steep pulls lead to a reachy move left to a hidden jug. Work up and left to a rest, then move back right past some tricky moves and a few nice drip features and pockets.

    Protection 

    8 bolts. I put a long sling on the 4th or 5th (the leftmost one). With a 60m rope you and your partner can lower each other from the anchor all the way back to the ground below the ramp.


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