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Carter Ledge
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Carter Ledge Direct  T 
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Wandering I  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown: As Climbed by Brad White and Matt Peer October 2012
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Brad White North Conway on Oct 20, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: RW leading the bottom of the corner on 5.6+/5.7 fr...

Description 

P1 – Climb 40 ft up to a small overlap in the left center of the slab. Start moving up and right to a small bush (hidden yellow #2 Camalot crack) then up a shallow left facing flake near the right edge of the slab. Move up then right over the top of the tree island using the occasional tree for protection. Belay at a small pine tree with gear backup 40 feet below the obvious corner/overlap. 200 ft 5.5 PG 13

P-2 – Friction straight up to the right slanting corner crack, (the eye), good protection can be found in the crack as you move up and right. Layback over a steep swell (crux , # four Camalot) and up the corner above another fifteen feet. Pull left over the corner 10 feet before its blocky end on big holds to a tree belay above. 5.6 80 ft

P-3 – Scramble up a low angle right facing corner to a second tree. Above the second tree climb a right curving groove to protection pockets at its top. Move left and up the clean white headwall above that is 30 feet left of the pocketed dike finish of Living the Dream. There are 2 hidden protection pockets (red Tri-cam or sideways nut) in the center of the headwall. Climb straight up the slab above to the highest Jack Pine the rope will reach. 200 ft 5.6 PG 13

P-4 - Scramble to the top. 4th class.

Walk 30-40 feet back and right and you will cross the hiking trail. Turn right/ down, soon re-tracing your hike in., about 2.5 miles back to your car.

Location 

Start at the bottom left most edge of Carter Ledge below an open slab, about 100-150 ft left of the start of "Direct"; see photo. [italic added by R.Hall]

This climb has Whitehorse style run outs on the slab sections but the protection in the crux corner is good if you have a #4 Camalot.

Protection 

For gear I would recommend bringing a light standard rack with a #4 purple Camalot and Tri-cams. Two #2 red Tri-cams would be helpful on the last pitch headwall pockets.


Photos of Wandering I Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to start the layback at the wide section.
About to start the layback at the wide section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the slab start of Wandering I
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the slab start of Wandering I
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking, hoping and then spotting a pocket on the ...
Looking, hoping and then spotting a pocket on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RW back in the corner after leading the bottom of ...
BETA PHOTO: RW back in the corner after leading the bottom of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the groove P3
At the top of the groove P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2. Matt Peer at the first belay tree...
Looking down P2. Matt Peer at the first belay tree...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Peer looking for the buckets on P2
Matt Peer looking for the buckets on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out at the second belay.
Hanging out at the second belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad White leading P2 (the eye)
Brad White leading P2 (the eye)

Comments on Wandering I Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 3, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

When we climbed this the bottom of the corner on P2 was a bit damp and slimy with lichen, so RW climbed the bottom about 10-12 ft to the right on 5.6+ / 5.7 friction; protected by a 0.5 Camalot in a crack high on the left...didn't need the #4, but did need a long reach ! See Photo
By Ralph Weissleder
Jun 16, 2017

Please contact me if you retrieved a cam and sling on this slab between 6/1 and 6/10. Will pay for postage or pick up. Thanks.

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