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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,512
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Wampum


After walking past the cave area and around a corner, you will find a large dark water stain on the rock, which has a set of bolts running up the left side of it.

Using the initial crack, climb up the water stain and onto a short face to the anchor above. The initial crack is an excellent learning tool for people needing to learn new moves at an easy grade of climbing.

A top rope can be set with minimal rope drag from to top anchors, though someone must first lead the route to accomplish this.


4 or more bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

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By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 22, 2010

Anyone else find it surprisingly difficult to get off the ground here?
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yeah Colin, this thing is awkward if I recall. You get a handjam or something and then thrutch up a few moves, at which point the climbing at the grade is more or less over. I probably wouldn't do it again.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 16, 2010

I agree, a pretty bouldery start for 5.7. It's not the most inspiring line, but serves okay as a warmup (literally, since it gets sun before the Main Wall areas to the left).
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2015

I can see sport climbers might have a hard time with the start if they don't know how to hand jam... probably an easy 5.7ish hand jam followed by 5.5 slab climbing. If you don't know how to hand jam, expect the start to be significantly harder (probably at least 5.9 as a face climb).

I'm pretty sure there were more than 4 bolts as well.
By Chasing Choss
From: California
Oct 23, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^^^ there is 6 bolts to mussys and the climb is longer than 30 feet

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