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Waltzing Worm 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Anne Carrier on Waltzing Worm, 1988.


The super fun thin crack on the right side of the wall starting with a small roof. A short but excellent exercise in thin crack climbing.

Pull the roof (crux) then continue up the steep crack above at one point utilizing a nice plate next to the crack. Not too bad - just straight-forward cranking on fingerlocks.

This gets the same rating as it's neighbor Scary Monsters, but climb both and see if this route doesn't seem a bit easier... ah..ratings!


gear to 2", especially to 1"

Photos of Waltzing Worm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Waltzing Worm". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Waltzing Worm". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Waltzing Worm from below with Young ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Waltzing Worm from below with Young ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RTM on Waltzing worm Photo:J. Browning
RTM on Waltzing worm Photo:J. Browning

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By Steve Juhasz
Mar 14, 2003

That nice plate which Chris mentions, happens to be quite flexible. It is nice definitely, but be careful to pull straight down onto it, rather than out so you don't break it. When I lead this route for the first time, I dynoed for that flexible flake (which is near the top of the crack, on it's left side) and I felt it flex outward so much I was certain it was about to bust off. Luckily, I only weigh 140 pounds, so it held, but beware! Awesome climb by the way!
By Josh Beck
Nov 5, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Pretty fun route, bring lots of thin gear. The only place I got fingers was in a couple of mini-pods / scars at the start, more like seam climbing for me. One of the cruxes for me was protecting the opening sequence pulling the mini-roof, as the obvious gear placement to keep you off the deck for the cruxy moves ahead had my fingers in it...

3 stars out of 5 maybe?
By Jerry Handren
Dec 5, 2007

Checked this out to-day. Suprisingly, no change in grade, although the upper sequence is probably the crux now that the plate is gone.
By snowey
Jan 25, 2009

If using the correct sequence the bottom roof goes at 5.11b or so. Now that the flake is gone, the top part is the desperate part.

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