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Waltzing Wern 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: AJ, Tom Murphy, Dave Evans
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The crux red varnish bulge.


This is the prominent right-leaning crack in the center of the wall. The crux is a flaring handcrack in a red bulge 100' up. Above the crux, move right 10' to an easy crack leading to the summit.


standard rack

Photos of Waltzing Wern Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes, the route is 180' long.
Yes, the route is 180' long.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 180' pitch.
Starting the 180' pitch.

Comments on Waltzing Wern Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Jan 19, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Long, steep, and harder than it looks. Crux moves are low percentage, better get it right the first time or end up dangling.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004

An unclimbed 3 star 11a crack in Jtree? Wow! This thing must be a hike and a half to get to. You guys were stoked to find this thing.
By tony grice
Dec 20, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route was cool!!! Some loose stuff as can be expected ,but overall this route was super fun.Long route short crux. Go to the bulkhead and walk to the right around it. You cannot miss this gem. Hope your sport climbing legs are in shape for the hike.
By tony grice
Dec 20, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

By Russ Walling
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing is a sad joke. You guys got us good on this one. A giant hike followed by super loose rock to an unispiring and contrived crux. At least I saw a rat and some nice cactus or the whole day would have been waste. To give this 4 stars means that things like Wanger Banger, Illusion Dweller and Coarse and Buggy should be 50 stars. Avoid this travesty at all costs.
By CTrudeau
From: Driggs, Idaho
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

120ft. of 5.8 followed by 10ft. of 5.10 is hardly worthy of " classic status". If it wasn't for the horrendous approach, I'd have bagged it upon first sight! This route will indeed clean up after about twenty more ascents, but I'd never recommend anyone ever slogging out there to bother!
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This thing is not anywhere near being a classic. Loose, not sustained, way the hell out there, and overrated. Mostly 5.7 with a short 8ft section of "the business". Save your time and energy, this and the other routes in the immediate area are total piles and wouldn't be worth climbing if they were next to the road, much less a 40min uphill march.Nice bee hive in the crack for you nature lovers.
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Nov 4, 2009

Wow, what a bunch of whiners!
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 4, 2009

I agree with Dee Eee......does everything have to be diamonds and teflon?....alittle Josh loose rock is good for you;...keep you on your toes, off the plastic, and give you a taste of real climbing....sac up, hike for more than 15 min., and give Big Moe, The Mel Cracks, and The Beaver a break.....and when you hike up to these unpolished "classics"...maybe you might find your OWN pile to spray about....

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