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The Dunce Cap
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Dunce Cap, The T 
Spirited Away T 
Time Out T 
Waltzing in the Wonderland T 

Waltzing in the Wonderland 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Vern Stiefel & Randy Vogel, 1992
Page Views: 724
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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After the crux getting ready to waltz in the decep...

Description 

The crux of this climb is in the first 10' so unless you are comfortable soloing 5.11 with potential to fall into a deep chasm, stick clip the first bolt. Technical underclinging and footwork gains a large edge. From here waltz up the dihedral with lieback and backstep moves (10+). A #0 TCU protects moves to the 2nd bolt.

Location 

This deceptively difficult route ascends the shallow and low angle dihedral just right of Time Out. Approach via the V0 boulder problem to the large ledge. Rappel anchors are at the top.

Protection 

Two bolts and #0 - #3 TCU's or equivalent. Rap anchors at the top.


Photos of Waltzing in the Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Waltzing In The Wonderland takes the very shallow ...
BETA PHOTO: Waltzing In The Wonderland takes the very shallow ...

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By Randy
Mar 29, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

The initial bolt is quite high, so a rather long stick clip device is needed. After the crux at the bottom, the moves are continuous and satisfying.

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