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Waltz for a Lovely Wife  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jack and Ben
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jul 2, 2015

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Summit

  • Access through Buddhist Temple MORE INFO >>>
  • Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is the easy multipitch climb at the crag. All of the pitches are long. The 7th pitch is 4th class. I believe that it was on this route that Jack fell and pulled a stopper and broke his ankle resulting in a trip to the hospital.

    I've only done the first pitch of this route many years ago, marking the bolt placements before they were drilled. Be aware that loose rock exists on this route.

    Protection 

    15 draws should be enough.


    Comments on Waltz for a Lovely Wife Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jake Ghetsai
    Dec 30, 2016

    Great climb, make sure you are steady at this grade, pitch 4 needs another bolt or two and the slingS are VERY VERY old, so the run out is sooooo gross, please donate some webbing or some rope for this cause.
    One sling (and very imortant sling i might add) is wrapped around a dead tree thing rendering it completely useless, so be ready to scale 25-30' with no protection, (I say the run out is a 4, (or 5.5-5.6, ) covered in thai-nee little holds, ALSO my partner and i COULD NOT find the anchors between p4 and p5, so bring enough slings to run both routes in one go.
    check in at Nooms guest house for the topo (and best place to stay, they are so incredibly sweet) for there are more detailed notes on the route.
    Rapeling down is on corcovado, the route to the right, get up all the way to the top, you'll see a set of anchors and some dirty class four below it, bushwhacky/rap off of these to a as et of anchors below, and continue rapping down from there.
    The ratings here are more intimidating than you'd think if you are used to the south so start early, please please start early,
    I used an 80 meter rope (more or less.....Maybe 78-79) and it got us down, it was BARELY enough, bring two ropes, if you have one rent another from nooms, you'll be so very thankful, there are palm trees, cactus.es, and billions of little annoying razor sharp nipples that snag your rope and won't let it got,
    Bring the other rope, and plan on getting your rope stuck on everything on the way down. Watch out for the owls too,

    If you are stuck in bangkok for a while get a train ticket to lopburi (it's less than a dollar)
    As you get off the train in lopburi turn right, avoid taxis, and walk to the second 7-11 on the corner turn left on whatever street that is and youll see Nooms guesthouse on the left, everybody knows the spot so ask if your lost, rooms are like 300baht.
    Scooters are the best way to get to the climb, it's an invigorating 20 minute ride, through some rowdy traffic, (another reason to start this climb early) rest days- swimming hole by the crag, sunflower fields, markets everywhwere, and the monkey temple (don't have anything in your hands or the monkeys will take it and run away

    12/30/2016

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