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Wally's Return
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
Routes in King (South Face)
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Catabolism S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wally's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Wally Wilson 1987 |
| Page Views: | 854 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Wenger on May 11, 2017 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
A few face moves gets you into the dihedral. Move up and left past some old tattered slings and a bail anchor w/ rap ring. From here, climb the flaring, intermittent cracks (crux, offset cams great here, reduces rating to PG) for about 15' to easier climbing. Once to the large bush, move right and up to the top. Gear anchor.
Descent: Rappel "Expectations" route 60' to the west. 70m rope gets you down in one. If you have a shorter rope, there are midway rappel chains. Or walk off east.
Note: If you climb just the bottom half, and TR or rappel from the mess of webbing and rap rings, it is a 3 star 5.7.
Descent: Rappel "Expectations" route 60' to the west. 70m rope gets you down in one. If you have a shorter rope, there are midway rappel chains. Or walk off east.
Note: If you climb just the bottom half, and TR or rappel from the mess of webbing and rap rings, it is a 3 star 5.7.
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