REI Community
Wall Tower

Wall Tower Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,560'
Page Views: 128
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Nov 8, 2015
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Description 

The northern most leaning tower was first climbed in 1933 by A A McCoubrey, B Blanchard, and R Neave. They climbed the north ridge from the west side. Of course, since this was so long ago, no modern rating is given in the CAJ. A lot of roped climbing is described by McCoubrey. My guess is that this route was equal to something respectable in the Dolomites - like maybe the 1933 Merriam Rt @ Cinque Torres (5.8). Also, the upper part of the McCoubrey route is possibly used by the popular Northeast Ridge. Others report an excellent knife edge with au cheval climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast Ridge from CAJ, 1980
Northeast Ridge from CAJ, 1980

This is probably the best descent route back to the tarn below the face (the only one in the Towers).

Next, in 1980, the first really long route went up: Northeast Ridge; IV, 5.7. The Jones-Palmer-Campbell-Roxburgh team was part of an Alpine Club of Canada Calgary section camp (Heli-supported). It might be that the NE Ridge is a wilderness half-pint version of the Nordkante on the Piz Badile (without bolted rappel stations every 25m). Guy Edwards soloed this route during the Trout Fishing in America expedition. A direct start from Wall Tower Tarn, 5.10, was done by Caton & Rutherford in 2015. This is the most popular long rock climb in the Towers.

1982, Steven Horvath and Derek Moule, during a Kootenay Mountain Club camp, came to within 200 feet of the summit on the South Ridge 5.10?, Aid used. No rating was given by the Kootenay Karabiner article but Kamploops climbers have climbed hard for a long time. The route is described as climbing the left hand side of Wall Tower's east face. They could see dinner being cooked and a storm coming from Kootenay Lake when they bailed.

The 2015 Caton-Rutherford expedition climbed State of Wonder, V, 5.11-, A0, on the east face of Wall Tower (Alpinist magazine ). They reported clean white rock and 5.10+ jam cracks. This is the first route on the east face of Wall Tower, no bolts!

Getting There 

.

Climbing Season

For the Columbia Mountains area.

Weather station 17.6 miles from here


Featured Route For Wall Tower
Comments on Wall Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About