Wall Street North Rock Climbing
THE CABBAGE PATCH
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The wall prior to and right around the Portal (where the two huge bluffs completely swallow the Colorado) comprise Wall Street North, a separate area with different climbing than on Wall Street proper. King's Hand and Point of Moab are in this area, which offer a dozen routes from 5.5 to 5.12 and less traffic than Wall Street. You have to walk to get there. No lazy belaying from the lawn chair next to your beer cooler with your car stereo providing tunes.
The area is located between mile markers 11 and 12, on the cliffs above the road. Not all routes are visible from the road (look for the features from Moab before venturing over to gain perspective). Park at the Jaycee Campground at 3.9 miles - there are few decent parking spots along the roadway north of Wall Street.
Rumour has it there is a very good bouldering site 0.2 miles north of the campground.
Drive north out of Moab on 191 and cross the bridge over the Colorado; continue 1.3 miles and make the left (south) turn onto Potash Road (279). Drive to the Jaycee Campground at 3.9 miles for parking and trail access to the Portal Trail (which accesses the Poison Spider Mesa rim trail and the Portal Overlook).
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Wall Street North
Sic Fun Ramp 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
: Moab Area
: ... : King's Hand
SIC FUN RAMP AKA:THE ACCELERATED CURVE- Climb the obvious ramp up to the roof. pass the roof (crux) utilizing face holds left. 10+ or C1+. continue up the ramp to bomber anchors just before a large boulder (where the rock quality deteriorates). double 70s (MANDATORY) off. we had some rope left on the ground. not sure if double 60s would make it. crazy good rap off over the mouth of the cave. great route. looks easy, a little deceiving; a bit harder than it looks. pretty clean for a ne...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 27, 2003
Im Drew (16) a Moab local. The rock is excellent even perfect in march to mid june then from September to mid November. I have been climbing these routs for a number of years with my neighbor and profeshional climber Jay Smith. Difficulty ranges from extremely hard to easy.