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The King Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Wack and Dangle Job T 
Chronic Fixation S 
Elusive Dream (pitch 1 only) T 
Four Guns Blazing S 
Keep, The T 
Kingdom Come S 
Prince, The T 
Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) T 
Working Wives S,TR 

Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 370'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 30, 2015

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Description 

This great linkup combines Wall Ruler and The King and I.

P1 (5.10d G): Go up the black face to a ledge, then make a difficult pull (crux) to gain a left-facing flake. Follow the flake to its top, then continue up and left and make a final difficult move to a hanging belay. This sport pitch is well-protected, but there is a possibility of ledge fall making the crux move. 80'

P2 (5.10a G, 5.4 X): Go straight up to a bolt, then make an awkward, scrunched traverse right to a large left-facing corner in the roof. Another awkward move gains jugs on the right wall. Go up and right to the arete and follow jugs over the roof (5.4 X), then go up and left to a fixed anchor. Gear to #2 Camalot. 50'

P3 (5.5 R): Go up and left from the anchor following the line of weakness, then up a chocolate-colored slab to a right-facing corner-roof. Up this to a sidewalk-ledge that slopes down and right. Go down this to its end, move down a 4'-high step (yellow Alien), then continue down and right to a fixed anchor. 100'

P4 (5.9+ G): Straight above the anchor is a line of black bolts (the line of bolts to the left is The Keep, 5.11b). Go up a black wall on amazing, hidden holds to a headwall. Over this, then up continue straight up two more bulges to a fixed anchor on a tree. The pitch is mostly bolted, but has a couple cam placements to #1 Camalot. 140'

Location 

From the Kingdom Come area, walk up and left through large boulders to a ledge approached from the left. Above the ledge are two bolted lines: the left one is Medieval Times, and the right one is Wall Ruler.

Protection 

P1: Quickdraws.
P2: Mostly small, plus a #1 and #2 Camalot.
P3: A couple small finger-sized cams, plus a #0.75 Camalot.
P4: A couple cams to #1 Camalot.


Comments on Wall Ruler-King and I (linkup) Add Comment
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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Sep 17, 2016

3 to 4 stars for The King and I, 1 to 2 stars for Wall Ruler.

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