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The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three.
P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9).
P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes.
It follows the obvious large crack on the SE face of the spire, to the right of duet.
Standard rack up to #5 camalot
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 8, 2015
I did this route a few times. I remember a fixed bong at the start of the wide. I also did a cool variation to the first pitch that had a nice surprise.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Mar 31, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yah Jeff, there WAS a fixed Bong on the 2nd pitch. :( Thieves have since pulled Willis's historical piece. Climbed it twice. The Bong was there in 1997 but found it gone in 2001.