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Wall Flower/Welcome link-up. S 
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Wall Flower/Welcome link-up. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Oct 31, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This variation combines the best parts of the two climbs (as well as avoiding the awkward parts of both), for a really fun route mix-up! Bring 2 long/extra-long slings to reduce rope drag at the transition.

Climb the first section of "Wall Flower", clipping the first 4 bolts. Clip the 4th bolt with a long sling, then traverse left and up 15 feet on easy ground to gain the 5th bolt of "Welcome to the Gorge".
Clip another long sling on this and continue up "Welcome to the Gorge" past another 4 bolts to the anchors.

Another option is to clip the "Welcome to the Gorge" anchors with a (longish) draw, then continue up past one more bolt to the anchors of "Sweet and Sour" (11 bolts total).

Location 

Start in the steep dihedral to the right of "Welcome to the Gorge"

Protection 

9 bolts, Mussy Hooks; to "Sweet and Sour" anchors: 11 clips, Mussy Hooks.

Lower off


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Oct 31, 2015

Better yet is to take it a bit farther to the Sweet&Sour anchor. 2 more slings for this.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 1, 2015

Thanks, Jeff - I will add that to the description.
By BAd
Jan 2, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great link-up, Mister E, although you can't be trusted with grades--too strong, like bull. I'm callin' it 5.9, you sand-bagger, you! :)

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