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Wall 5

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Beer, Simon T 
A Portrait of Me? Breathtaking! T 
Ankle-biters T 
Ant Spasms T 
Couture (Seam) T 
Gently! Gently! T 
Gizecht (Face) TR 
I'll Have a Kir T 
I'm On My Way T 
Let's Catch Our Breath T 
Madame Longrée T 
Monsieur Cheval T 
Postman T 
Threading the Needle T 

Wall 5 Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 1,782
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 21, 2014
Forecast:
Today

75° | 59°
Friday

78° | 65°
Saturday

77° | 62°
Sunday

79° | 60°
Monday

76° | 62°
Tuesday

79° | 63°
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BETA PHOTO: The rap station on top of Wall 5 with the route &q...

Description 

Rock Climbing Photo: Ches Upham hoping to find gear soon on the FA of t...
Ches Upham hoping to find gear soon on the FA of the 5.8 R/X "Seam"


Some of the hardest, dark sandstone around. Excellent gear and some weird, cool features. All routes start down under the cool, dark canopy of the narrower section of the canyon (meaning it's a good spot on a warm day if you hike up early). Mind the oak and be prepared for a little bit of gardening.

Rock Climbing Photo: Most of the routes on Wall 5
Most of the routes on Wall 5


Watch out for tarantulas in some of the cracks (seriously). If the winds pick up, you may want to head down the canyon: the large, loose blocks on the left side of Wall 4 continue to fall and impact the middle and right routes here.

Rock Climbing Photo: Jan Roestel on the 2nd solo ascent of "Ant Sp...
Jan Roestel on the 2nd solo ascent of "Ant Spasms" on the right side of Wall 5.

Getting There 

Wall 5 is about 500' up the canyon from the left end of Wall 3 (or just under 1/4 mile from the start of the canyon).

Climbing Season

For the Panic Town area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 5

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 5:
A Beer, Simon   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Postman   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 80'   
Couture (Seam)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 5

Featured Route For Wall 5
Rock Climbing Photo: Start

A Beer, Simon 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  California : Central Coast : ... : Wall 5
The easy crux is at the start where it's a bit slabby, but it's low angle (all about feet). No worries, though, once you get into the pod, it's smooth sailing. Head up and out of the pod, follow the crack and anchor off the large oak tree, on the left. This climb flows well and takes gear really well.The tree at the base has been cut back, but if it's grown back, getting through the branches is the real crux.As hard as we've tried, no where on this route is there a man named Simon to give you...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Wall 5 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Most of the routes on Wall 5
BETA PHOTO: Most of the routes on Wall 5

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